By the time the azaan resonates in the air around Nakhoda Masjid, Zakaria Street has already turned into a food paradise. The aroma wafts from grilling kebabs, oil smokes in giant kadhais, and somewhere between the savoury and the spiced, mithais too claim their loyal following and place.
A few steps into the lane, Haji Alauddin Sweets pulls crowds all-day long. During Ramadan, no iftar walk feels complete without a stop here.
What one must first try is the famed battisi halwa, a dense and glistening sweet dish. Made with 32 ingredients (hence the name), a blend of nuts, dry fruits and generous desi ghee, it is the kind of treat that people with a sweet tooth can’t walk away from.
Around the battisi halwa lies trays of Karachi halwa, mawa laddoo, gajar ka halwa and gulab jamun.
Halwa puris wrapped around sooji halwa is another dish that attracts the foodies' attention. These are not small puris, but large, puffed discs fried till golden in huge kadhais and served with a scoop of soft, moist ghee-rich sooji halwa. Opposite Dilli 6, near Muradabadi Lazeez Kebab, people queue patiently, waiting their turn to get this delicacy hot, crisp and fresh.
Can one ignore the classics? Firni set in earthen bowls, shahi tukda soaked in syrup and crowned with malai. These are sold from a shack as you walk past Nakhoda Masjid towards Chitpore. At Taskeen, falooda is handed out in thermocol bowls with a malai kulfi topped with rose syrup.
And just when you head back home, a whiff of hot jalebis frying in oil pulls you back in. Amritis, thicker and equally tempting, are also laid out neatly on trays.
On Zakaria Street during Ramadan, mindful eating feels almost criminal. So come for the kebabs if you must, but do stay for the sweets!
