He’s young and confident at 27. He’s modest and marvellous with what he does in the kitchen. Born and brought up in Lucknow, Tahir Qureshi is heading the Awadhi cuisine at the Chowringhee star hotel. A chat...

Why and how did you become a chef?

It started at home. My family was in the catering business for weddings. Then in 2005, I joined Taj in Lucknow as commis (junior chef). In 2009, I joined ITC Sonar where my elder brother Hafeez Qureshi was the masterchef at Dum Pukht. In 2012, I moved to Dubai with Movenpick Hotels &  Resorts for their restaurant, Chutney’s.

Are you related to Imtiaz Qureshi?

Haan, woh mere sagge mama (his mother’s brother) hain. I have also worked with him in ITC Sonar. We are six brothers and two of them are working in Taj, Dubai.

Why didn’t you mention this connection before?

(Smiles) Reference dena achha nahin lagta.

How did The Oberoi Grand happen?

When I returned from Dubai, I was working for a festival in ITC Sonar and chef Parvinder Singh Bali (from The Oberoi Group) saw me working there. I went to Delhi on his reference for a food test where P.S. Oberoi tried my food and liked it. I was then recommended for this property in Calcutta.

At 27, you are heading the Awadhi cuisine at The Oberoi Grand! What is your primary role?

I will be representing Awadhi cuisine in a new way, apne style mein, jaise Dum Pukht mein jata hai, usse thoda sa hatke. For example, the process of dum for a biryani at Dum Pukht is done in front of the guests because they have a show kitchen. I will serve the same biryani but the dum won’t be in front of the guests, yet the flavour, taste and aroma will be the same. I will also be presenting Awadhi cuisine in a modern way, for example through cocktail-size portions.

What are some of the dishes you will be introducing at The Oberoi Grand?

Lucknowi speciality Mirchi Kebab — capsicum soaked in vinegar and stuffed with mashed potato. Another one is the Mughlai Saag — boiled and chopped spinach made with fennel tadka. And Murg Angara Tikka, which is a spicy recipe learnt from my brother. In Dubai, the Arbi folk and the foreigners love eating spicy food; it goes well with a drink.

Can you make Tundey Ke Kebab?

Yes, I can!

Name the spices and ingredients that Awadhi cuisine is incomplete without...

Browned onions as base, yogurt, browned garlic, black and green cardamom and cloves. Our home-grown Dal Qureshi is made from 65 spices but the flavour doesn’t taste of masalas. The dal is the hero and the rest are supporting actors.

Your next favourite cuisine after Awadhi?

I don’t look beyond Awadhi but if I have to, it’s Punjabi.

Any special memories of Lucknow?

Lucknow ki khaas baat yeh hai ki Lucknow ki shaam mashoor hai. When you go to Nazirabad or old Lucknow, you will feel special.

Have you cooked for any celebrities?

I made mutton biryani with burani raita for Shah Rukh Khan during the 2011 IPL at Eden Gardens.

In Calcutta, when you want to eat good Awadhi food, where do you go?

Zakaria Street. I love the Chicken Chaanp at Royal (Indian Hotel).

Do you like the food in Calcutta?

It’s similar to the food in Lucknow. The only difference is that the food in Lucknow is refined, the gravies are of fine texture, whereas here it’s not. Example, the khare masale in biryani here is visible, but in Lucknow, the rice is white though the flavour of spices is very much there.

You said you visited Switzerland in 2016 to collect an award for Employee of the Year award at Movenpick Hotels. What local food did you like there?

Wahan pe aisa hi food chalta hai jo hum log pasand nahin karte!

Text: Karo Christine Kumar
Picture of chef: Pabitra Das