PROFILE

Sumiya and her brother, Suhail Wani, are set to transform the look of traditional Kashmiri embroidery. And the first step towards it is to simplify the technique of crewel embroidery — an ancient embroidery using wool to create a slightly raised effect on a fabric.

They specialise in working their crewel magic on rugs, cushion covers and stylish bags that are retailed from their boutique store, Naqsh, in Delhi’s plush Santushti shopping arcade.

The siblings are deeply committed to preserving this art. For, it’s a dying art since the technique is tedious and the number of artisans who have traditionally been engaged in it is dwindling. “There weren’t any buyers for their work owing to the political climate in Kashmir,’’ says Suhail.

Originally from Kashmir, the two opted out of careers in the corporate world. Suhail, 27, completed his computer engineering from the Bangalore Institute of Technology and gave up his job at Infosys after three years. Sumiya, 26 and an MBA, declined all job offers that came her way. “I was clear that I wanted to work towards preserving the traditional craft and breathing a new life into it,” she says.

The Wanis owe their talent to their father who was trained in crewel embroidery by their grandfather. Their grandfather taught Kashmiris the art of needle embroidery and crewel embroidery among other skills. Their father took over the business and began exporting items worked with crewel embroidery to Italy, Sweden, Portugal, Australia, America and Canada. But in 1992, the family relocated to Delhi owing to the turmoil in the valley.

Last year, their exports were hit by the global recession, which led the siblings to open their first outlet in Delhi. They have just unveiled their second store in Mumbai.

Sumiya and Suhail have always been a part of the family business but it was only in 2003 that they formally joined in it. And with them came fresh ideas. They did away with the tried-and-tested floral prints and roped in an artist from Canada to send them digital patterns.

What’s more, the siblings have also simplified the process of embroidery. “We eliminated the long-drawn process and got everything digitalised,” says Suhail. Another change they introduced is the use of glazed cotton and linen threads for the embroidery, instead of just wool. Today, the Wanis employ about 300 families in the Anantnag district of Kashmir.

Trends

Sumiya, who offers customised products for interiors for her clients, says bright colours are the way to go in home décor. So, watch out for coral, red, black, green and mauve for cushions, curtains or even rugs.

Other colour combinations that are hot for interiors, she adds, are steel grey and red as well as beige and green. “A lot of modern homes play around with these colour stories,” says Sumiya.

Meanwhile black and white will perhaps never fall out of favour, says Sumiya. So, her advice is that if you are doing up your home, be bold and give pale colours a miss this season. “People want a cheerful home that’s bright and inviting,” points Sumiya.

PROducts

There’s a wide choice of products in the Nashq repertoire. Take your pick of cushion covers, rugs, bags and wall-hangings in varying colours and sizes. Funky digital designs have been converted into embroidered artworks on rugs and cushion covers.

One of the latest additions in their collection is a range of bags priced between Rs 800 and Rs 4,000. More recently, the designers have been attempting to replicate the intricate papier mâché designs on fabric. “Papier mâché too is a dying art and we are trying to revive it by using its designs on fabric,” says Sumiya.

The cushions are funky and priced from Rs 500 to Rs 2,000 depending on the sizes. The wall-hangings are priced from Rs 2,400 to Rs 16,000. Sumiya has also experimented with what she calls retro line in which you’ll find very bold design patterns like polka dots and heavy use of classic black and white in crewel embroidery patterns.