As we take Sevak Road out of Siliguri, the hills and forests close in on our jeep. The route cuts through Mahananda Wildlife Sanctuary, heading straight for the distant green mountain range.

Tall and majestic, the sals and seguns on both sides add charm to the landscape. The foliage is so dense that sunlight barely penetrates it. A breeze wafts past, bearing the fragrance of the verdure.

A few kilometres ahead, is a rail bridge over the river Teesta. As we approach, a passenger train vanishes into the forest on the other side.

The jeep passes some beautiful tea gardens on the way. Everywhere, there is only greenery.

From Khunia, we leave the national highway and take a narrower road. A signboard points the way to Jaldhaka Hydel Power Project in the Chapramari range.

Past a dense growth of sal, segun, jarul and orange trees, we stop at Chapramari checkpoint. After the customary permit check, we proceed to the forest bungalow.

What?s most discernible is the total absence of sound, except the calls of birds. A flock of monkey watches us intently from a nearby tree.

The rooms at the bungalow are well decorated and have attached bathrooms, but there is no electricity. In the distance, Jaldhaka range looms in the background of clear sky.

With ration brought from Siliguri, our cook prepares khichuri, while we sit at the watchtower with glass walls and take in the majestic view.

The beauty of the sunset at Chapramari is accentuated by the variety of birdsong. The flora, too, is many hued.

The sanctuary, flanked by the Neora, Bamni and Murti, is famous for its elephant population. Wild boar, bison, leopard and the Himalayan langur can also be seen in plentiful. Even the Royal Bengal Tiger can be spotted on rare occasions.

As night falls, the forest is bathed in moonlight. A golden deer bounds into the foliage barely a hundred metres from the bungalow. The light of the lantern enhances the sense of adventure.

Though the next morning we are ready to head for Jhalang, the Chapramari experience, will remain etched in our minds for a long time.

Going:

The railhead is New Jalpaiguri. Chapramari is 129 km from Siliguri. Jeeps are available on contractual basis. The one-way journey costs Rs 1,400. Keeping the jeep with you will cost Rs 1,000 per day. Jhalang, Bindu and Murti are close by. Ration needs to be carried from Siliguri

Staying:

West Bengal Forest Development Corporation bungalow. Book from 6A, Raja Subodh Mullick Square, Arya Mansion (seventh floor), Calcutta 13. Ph: 22370060/1. Website: www.wbfdc.com