Over the last few months, I have seriously contemplated revisiting my career choice. Rather late in the day, I must admit. Though considering I still have a lot of good years left in me, and in spite of a few Lifetime Achievement threats, it seems to be the sensible thing to do. Reinventing myself every couple of years is an exercise I believe in. It keeps me alive and challenged. But what with the Supreme Court judgments, the constant cloud of Prohibition, alcohol out of Make in India, it makes one question one’s attachment to the spirits that cheer! Maybe, much in the same vein, I should devote myself to elaborating on the joys of non-alcoholic cocktails. Or learn how to make cheese. Go back to cooking. Better yet, expand my writing skills beyond just spirited tales.
In this very morose frame of mind, I found myself going back to the beginning. Taking a long look at the years gone by and reflecting upon all that has happened since. It pulled me right out of the rut and reminded me of all the really great things that have been achieved, both individually and as an industry. There is light. And even though our political gaggle may not acknowledge it, there is immense success in spite of everything. Let’s take a look through my looking glass.
Not only does one drink wine, but one inhales it, one looks at it, one tastes it, one swallows it…
and then one talks about it
— King Edward VII
I began my journey with Bosca and Golconda. After studying soil, microclimates and fermentation, we needed to discover what the darned stuff tasted like. Sure, there were those who looked down upon us. But these lowly wines were the ones that taught us to look upwards, to understand words like nose, palate, body, structure; made us want to save from the measly sums we earned to treat ourselves to REAL wine! It would take us a whole year to be able to finally blow it all on a bottle of Pouilly-Fuisse, or a Chablis, or a Beaujolais with stars in our eyes. Then came Kanwal Grover and Shyam Chowgule, pioneers with a passion to make good wines in India. And they did. Our world was suddenly brighter. Our palates better. Marquise de Pompadour clinked proudly in flutes. Grover La Reserve glinted ruby and round. The sun shone brighter when a young Rajeev Samant decided to return to India and establish Sula Vineyards. Our vocabulary expanded to Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc, Zinfandel and Merlot. Our evenings got cheerier and there were conversations around wine. They inspired a generation of enthusiasts like me and winemakers alike. Today, Karishma Grover continues after her grandfather and father at Grover Zampa. Abhay Kewadkar makes amazing wines at Four Seasons, once the home of Bosca. You can choose from some brilliant wines coming from Sula, Grover Zampa, Four Seasons, Fratelli, Reveilo, Charosa, York, Vallonne, SDU, and Krsma, to name a few. And this is just the beginning.
5. Four Seasons Cabernet Sauvignon
Always carry a flagon of whisky in case of a snakebite. And furthermore, always carry a small snake
— W.C. Fields
The study of whisk(e)y has always fascinated me. I remember my dad meticulously pouring a precise measure into his very masculine, heavy-bottomed glass. How he slowly sipped, even chewed on it, the pleasure showing only in the tiniest of nods and his grip on the glass. I had my first sip from his glass, not really understanding it then, but intrigued.
Tito, as his name suggests, was someone I looked up to growing up. He had this air of knowledge and quiet charisma that made you believe. He taught me how to appreciate Scotch. And a bottle of bourbon in Dad’s bar opened up my world to the difference.
My tryst with Indian whisky began with Solan Number One from Kasauli, one of the earliest Indian whiskies to be made from grain. My research opened my eyes to the fact that most Indian whiskies were actually based on extra-neutral alcohol (ENA) made from molasses punched with colour and flavour, occasionally blended with Scotch malt. Then came the McDowell’s Single Malt Whisky. A bold move by UB that made us sit up. Sadly, it was a blip that got lost.
Imagine my dismay when a journalist, while on an American Whisky Trail, waxed eloquent on the new Indian single malt Amrut from Bangalore. I knew nothing about it. On my return, I dug it up, tasted it and even visited the distillery and met their very passionate master distiller Surrinder Kumar. A proud moment indeed. This was liquid Indian gold that was outstanding. We were finally on the world stage, standing tall with Amrut fusion Single Malt Whisky, winning accolades and awards. Then I met Paul John. He was introducing his single malts — Brilliance and Edited — at a presentation in Bangalore.
I’m 5 feet 2 but felt like 6!! Which took me to Goa and master distiller Michael D’Souza — quiet and understated with a fire in his eyes. The man who crafts and watches over ‘The Great Indian Single Malt’, as Paul John calls itself, constantly innovating. He introduced me to their Bold variant and allowed me the luxury of a wee dram from his sherry cask, still in the making. The giant has awoken. I hear the Rampur Single Malt is making some noise too. What could be more delightful?
A fine beer may be judged with only one sip, but it’s better to be thoroughly sure!
— Czech proverb
And that’s where I expect 2009 to veer towards. Beer. Brewpubs with microbreweries attached. A cricket-themed brewpub is all set to roll in Gurgaon. Pune is gearing up to one too. Young entrepreneurs are looking to open cafes and casual diners with a focus on a wide range of bottled beers and tap beers. I see not just more international beers but styles of beer — ales, stouts and wheat beers — making their presence felt. And that can only be good.”
I wrote this in 2008 December. Doolally’s in Pune with Prateek Chaturvedi, Suketu Talekar and brewmaster Oliver Schauf changed the beer game. What followed is history — in Bangalore, Gurgaon, Pune, Mumbai and now Calcutta too. We discovered that there was life beyond lager. A good one too! The last eight years have opened the palate of fans to a slew of fantastic craft-brewed beers. I had my first sip in Pune at Doolally’s and will never forget that experience. The Biere Club, Arbor Brewing Co. and Toit in Bangalore opened my eyes wider. Belgian Witbier, Irish Red Ale, Hefeweizen, IPA, Stout, Belgian Tripel, Dark Ale. Every trip meant more craft brew.
I really wasn’t a “beer person”. I’ve changed. I am now. I remember sending a silent salute to brewmaster Matthew Callahan while sipping at Toit. I watched young Indian assistant brewers, boys and a girl, at The Biere Club giving it their all. There’s brewmaster Ishan Grover, who is leading the revolution in Gurgaon today with Quaff and Manhattan craft brewery and is the man behind the soon-to-open brewery at Afra Tafri, Calcutta. Koushika Viswanath, the feisty druid at The Grid, Calcutta, is brewing up a storm. Rahul Mehra is another game changer with the Gateway Brewing Co. Mumbai, too, has shown some spunk — The Barking Deer Brewpub, The White Owl, Brewbot, Doolally Taprooms are quenching parched throats. Pioneers like Pradeep Gidwani and Rahul Singh are paving the way with The Pint Room and The Beer Cafe. Golden!
There are two reasons for drinking: one is, when you are thirsty, to cure it;
the other, when you are not thirsty, to prevent it!
— Thomas Love Peacock
And that’s not all. Goan cashew feni has been granted geographical indication (GI) and heritage status. They are taking it to new levels. Lembranca from Mac and Cedric Vaz of Madame Rosa Distillery is a blend of barrel-aged and charcoal-filtered feni — mellow caramel and fruit. Their five-year-old aged feni is deep amber, silky, amazing. The triple-distilled feni from Rhea Distilleries is clean, soft and fruity. It’s still only in Goa, thanks to our archaic laws. Drink it cold. It softens the big flavours of the cashew fruit.
Desmond Nazareth went where I would have loved to go but didn’t dare. To distil an agave spirit from plants growing in Chittoor, Andhra Pradesh. A cachaca-style rum from sugar cane. An orange liqueur from Nagpur oranges. A margarita blend in a bottle. Under the label DesmondJi! Outstanding work.
Gautom Menon persevered, studied, worked at his father’s distillery in Kerala to produce a world-class rum in Wild Tiger Special Reserve. It’s only for exports currently and roaring everywhere it has been.
The heritage liqueurs of Rajasthan are hidden treasures, calling out to the world. Gems like mahua are languishing, in fear of being lost to us forever. We need to save and protect them.
And finally the silent few who introduce every new find to the thirsty, draw them to the watering hole, win them over with charming smiles and quiet authority. The few who delve into the soul of the many spirits that sit serenely on a bar shelf. Understand the legacy, the art, the passion that brings forth each magical libation. And respectfully craft them into a melody that sings at first sip. Every splash, drop or drizzle weaves in nuances, layers, highlights and flavour. A receptacle that pays homage, a sleight of hand that makes it art. My colleagues and friends over the years who have shown the way — Bertie Gomes, Pearl Dias, Eric Lobo, Derrick Murray, Yangdup Lama, Irfan Ahmed, Sandy Verma. May our light shine upon the young ones, always. May we always be able to bask in their reflected glory!
I am a proud Indian. And I stand with all of these brave people who have shown the world that India is First World in more ways than I can count. And I will keep the candle lit. Stand up. Support our spirited warriors. After all, it is the “water of life” that makes us happy and our lives just a little euphoric.
Cheers!
Shatbhi Basu is the first woman bartender in India and
director of Creative Consultants and STIR Academy of Bartending
