Celebrity chef Vineet Bhatia, who owns the Michelin-starred Rasoi by Vineet in London, talks to t2 about his journey across India for Twist of Taste, which airs on Fox History & Traveller on Sundays, 9pm.
 |
You wanted to be a pilot. How did you end up in the kitchen?
When I could not become a pilot, I started looking for other things I could be good at. Hotel management was one. Initially, I wanted to be a barman. But I was put into the kitchen at The Oberoi by mistake!
My real training started at The Oberoi, Mumbai. But soon I realised they were training me not for Indian food but Continental. So all my off days, I devoted to Indian food (he is now consultant chef at the Indian speciality restaurant, Ziya, at The Oberoi, Mumbai).
Why did you leave India?
I was getting very frustrated here. People in India refuse to adapt. They wanted things to be done the same way, with half an inch of oil floating on top. Experiments in European khana were being applauded but when it came to desi khana, woh sab nahin hona chahiye. I found it very hypocritical.
You reached Britain in 1993. What kind of Indian food was being served there then?
There was no Indian food being served in London. Second-generation Bangladeshis and Pakistanis changed the dishes according to their palate. They were not trained. They did it for a living. Rogan Josh had capsicum, onion and tomato floating on top. Kebabs and chicken tikka were being fried instead of passing through the tandoor. This is not something any Indian would accept. It was a challenge to re-educate them.
How difficult was it finding a footing in London?
Very difficult. Initially, I had guests walking out saying ‘This is not Indian khana, this is not how we eat it here’. On the first day, I made a Lamb Shank Rogan Josh and someone complained: “Yeh toh haddiwallah khana hai, yeh kuttey khatey hain, aadmi nahin. Iss mein tel nahin hai, masaley nahin hain (This dish has bones, it’s fit only for dogs; it doesn’t have any oil or masala).” Another day I made French Gajar Ka Halwa and I was told it was not like a cake. What can you do? How much can you change?
What was the turning point?
We had some fantastic press. These great reviews brought us to the notice of people and created awareness. Well-travelled people who had been to India came and said this is what it should be like. That gave us confidence.
How many signature restaurants do you have now and where?
Twelve. In Bombay, Switzerland, Dubai, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, Mauritius, Abu Dhabi and London.
Is the food served in India different from what you serve in London or Saudi Arabia?
The ethos is the same but the menu varies. You have to cook for the people of the area. There’s no point serving game or wild birds and animals (venison, pigeon etc) in Dubai or Saudi Arabia because they are such warm places. You should have lighter things — fish and grilled food — on the menu. Everywhere we apply our technique and at the same time use local ingredients.
What earned you the Michelin star?
For us, a Michelin star is what an Oscar is for an actor. They never give you a report on what they judge you on. But they look at creativity, innovation and a high level of consistency. You can’t serve a good meal one day, a bad meal the next day. The judges are anonymous — you never know who they are or when they come. They come 24-25 times a year and from different places of the world. The guide is spread across the world now.
Why did you say yes to Twist of Taste?
I was never keen on television. I am not a TV personality. But if it is a show which showcases Indian cuisine at its finest then I am all for it. But I didn’t want it to be a show where I cook something and come out. I wanted a travel show with a food aspect. My wife Rashima and I chalked out iconic places. We went to Karim’s in Delhi, which is known for kebabs and biryanis, and modified that into something else. Amritsar, Lucknow — everywhere we adapted and modernised the food.
Why did you include places like Mcleodganj and Manali?
We wanted to have an interesting mix of places. Everyone goes to the north and the south, and that’s it. India has a lot more to offer. Himachal is a belt that has never been touched. The Kulu trout, which originally came from Kashmir, has become a signature dish locally. After we went down south to Chennai and Cochin, we wanted to go to Puri and Bhubaneswar for the temples. We also wanted to see what Guwahati has — tangra maachh or whatever. The places chosen must be interesting enough for you to visit as well.
What is the format?
Rashima does the travel aspect, I do the food. In the first segment we welcome you to the city and showcase the noteworthy spots. In the second, we eat an authentic dish at a traditional eatery. In the third, I cook for the camera. The show has a challenge. She (Rashima) chooses a surprise local ingredient which I have to incorporate in the food. In the fourth segment, eight local people join us for the meal.
In Chennai, I took sambhar and added curry leaves ice cream. These things can’t be planned. Eating has to be fun. We bring that fun to the show.
How did the Calcutta leg of the shoot go?
It was a funny episode. When we were shooting near Victoria Memorial, ek bandarwallah aa gaya. The monkey jumped on my head and scratched my face. I think it was trying to play but I had to go take injections. We went to Kewpie’s and had hilsa there. The baked rosogolla we had at Balaram Mullick was amazing. I was also fortunate to visit Kumartuli, a kusti akhada and go on a boat trip on the Hooghly.
Which is your favourite cookery show on TV? Tell t2@abp.in
Adraki Tandoori Champaen
Serves: 4
Ingredients: Three-bone lamb chops (slightly flattened), 8
First marinade
- Ginger paste, 1tbsp
- Garlic paste, 1tbsp
- Lemon juice, 1tsp
 |
Second marinade
- Thick yogurt, 1 cup
- Ginger stem (peeled and grated), 1”
- Coriander powder, 1tsp
- Cumin powder, 1tsp
- Red chilli powder, 1tsp
- Turmeric powder, 1tsp
- Vegetable oil, 1tbsp
- Lemon juice, 1tsp
- Garam masala powder, ¼tsp
- Salt to taste
- Vegetable oil to sear the lamb chops, 2tbsp
- Bamboo skewers, soaked in warm water for 30 minutes, 4
Method
In a glass bowl place the lamb chops and massage them with the first marinade made of ginger, garlic and lemon juice. Leave it for 30 minutes.
For the second marinade, take some yogurt, whisk it well and add to it grated ginger, coriander, turmeric, chilli, cumin and coriander powders and garam masala. Then add lemon juice, oil and salt. Mix it well. Take the mixture and apply it liberally on the lamb chops.
Heat some oil in a pan and lightly fry the lamb. Preheat the oven to 175°C. Once fried, put the lamb chops on skewers, apply the leftover marinade and put them in the oven on a tray to grill for 12 minutes.
