Spicy, flavourful, rich, with tender meat, dollops of ghee and a dash of lime — it’s that time of the year when you can enjoy bowls of haleem. With so many places around that offer different versions of this speciality, team t2 decided to go on a haleem trail to get you the best. Guess who joined us in our quest? Chef and t2 columnist Shaun Kenworthy. Let the trail begin!
OTHER RAMAZAN SPECIALS
Stop 1: New Aliah Hotel
Where: 31 Bentinck Street (next to Paradise cinema)
Pocket pinch: Rs 150, Rs 300 and Rs 400
Made with more than 14 types of dal and cooked for over eight hours, the Mutton Haleem at New Aliah Hotel has a spicy, typically Indian flavour to it. “On an average day, we sell more than 400 plates of haleem. On weekends, the numbers rise. If you visit after 15th Ramadan, you will not find space to stand and get your haleem parcelled, that’s how crowded it gets,” said an assistant at New Aliah Hotel.
Shaun could not check himself from taking the ladle and filling up a couple of bowls. Before a curious crowd could gather, we were ushered inside Aliah, where we savoured the spices of the haleem. “Wonder what accompaniments can one serve along with haleem,” chef Shaun thought out aloud as we came up with suggestions from appams to bread.
Stop 2: Aminia Restaurant
Where: Zakaria Street, near Badi Masjid
Pocket pinch: Rs 115 to Rs 175
Meandering through the crowded and buzzing Zakaria Street, the whiff of different flavours from the large degs welcomed us into the first and oldest Aminia outlet. Established in 1929, Aminia serves five types of haleem — namely Beef Special Haleem (made using beef kofta, tongue and meat), Beef Arbi Haleem (or the regular beef haleem), Beef Magaz Haleem (made using chunks of flavourful magaz or brain), Mutton Haleem and Boneless Chicken Haleem. Since the restaurant remains mostly shut during Ramazan, Awadhi Biryani is also sold along with haleem.
Shaun lost no time in inviting himself into the kitchens, exploring the large cauldrons, before we sampled three varieties of haleem. “It’s flavourful but not too spicy, and quite a lot like haleem in its real sense. The fat from the paaya is on point,” was his verdict.
“The Beef Special Haleem is our bestseller along with the Boneless Chicken Haleem,” said Asil Amin, co-owner of the Aminia chain. The 22-year-old, back from the UK after 15 years, is on the lookout to add newer business models — like Swiggy — to the traditional family restaurant business.
“One of my aims is to be able to take Aminia abroad, someday,” he said in a thick British accent that only Shaun,
a British, had no difficulty grasping!
Stop 3: Bashir Hotel
Where: 73/A Colootola Street (walking distance from Aminia but you’ll have to ask!)
Pocket pinch: Rs 95 to Rs 120
The hustle and bustle of Colootola Street just an hour before Iftar has a pulsating energy of its own. The walk to Bashir Hotel could have been tedious, had we not relished what chef Shaun called the “sensory overload” — the different sights, smells, tastes, and noises that made for an altogether different experience.
Situated right where the street turns is the takeaway counter [there is no sit-down space] of Bashir Hotel. We were greeted by Hasan Ahmed Quraishi, the seventh generation descendent, whose forefathers had worked in the kitchen of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah in Lucknow. What initially started as a humble catering business has now culminated into a full-fledged wedding catering system and is preferred by the who’s who of the city when it comes to the ‘deg biryani’. With a sale of over 15 huge cauldrons of haleem during the weekend, this small establishment has a loyal fan following, the most preferred being the Bashir Haleem or the Beef Haleem.
For chef Shaun, this is the best he’s tasted on the trail so far. “This has character, which is very important for a dish like haleem. Not too rich, and not too spicy,” he said, rattling off the history behind the “strong Persian influences” that Calcutta has, probably because of its close association with the royalty from Murshidabad during the colonial and pre-colonial times.
Stop 4: Arsalan
Where: Park Circus, seven-point crossing
Pocket pinch: Rs 160
Swiftly driving through the Park Circus flyover at dusk, we reached Arsalan at the five-point crossing just before Iftar broke. The shutters were downed and no new customers were given tables during this time as the staff and patrons sat down to break the fast. We were invited to join them. A spread of cut fruits, dates, crispy fried pakoras and mutton samosas were laid out with bowls of their famous Chicken and Mutton Haleem. Made with eight different types of dal and dalia soaked overnight and simmered for over eight hours with juicy meat and more than 28 different spices, the Arsalan haleem is preferred far and wide with queues extending till the end of the pavement, said Mohammed Tawfique, chief food supervisor at the 14-year-old establishment that now has more than eight branches. “What’s another Ramazan special?” we asked. “Shahi Tukda” was the prompt response.
Stop 5: Shiraz Golden Restaurant
Where: 135 Park Street, Mullick Bazar crossing
Pocket pinch: Rs 160
It was after sunset and the busy streets had come alive once again as we walked to our next destination — Shiraz Golden Restaurant. The eatery has an ongoing haleem festival with over five different varieties. We were introduced to the manager
Md. Halim. [We thought we had heard the gentleman’s name wrong, given the copious amounts of haleem we had eaten, until Mr Halim himself cracked a joke about it!]
From Shahi and Afghani to Irani and Hyderabadi, all varieties have been covered at Shiraz. “The biggest difference between each type is the spices used, as each mix of spices lends a different aroma and flavour. The most popular, however, remains the Shahi Haleem. Our haleem is so popular that people even send it to friends and relatives abroad,” said the manager.
We tried the Shahi Haleem, which was aromatic and smooth.
