He returned to India from America in 1978, in search of spirituality. What that journey resulted in instead was Hidesign, one of India’s most successful fashion brands. “I used to think business is almost criminal! But things change, my long hair has changed,” smiled Dilip Kapur, sipping a glass of red wine at The Oberoi Grand during a recent trip to town. t2 discussed bags and more with Dilip…

Needless to say, the first thing you notice about a person is the bag! But what about the bag do you first notice?

Whether it speaks about the person who is carrying it. It is supposed to express a message about the wearer. A smart woman is very conscious about what she wants to express. For example, a person for whom career is important should carry a bag that expresses where she wants to be in her career.

A good brand clearly expresses everything about a person. For example, all over Japan, Louis Vuitton stands for something — it says you have achieved something in life. The biggest danger in India is that women are carrying shiny, synthetic bags.

What sells most in Calcutta?

Calcutta is more classic compared to Delhi. I would compare the market to Bangalore and Chennai. Price is apparently a concern here but it is fast reducing as a factor. Classic shapes and colours do well here. Women in Calcutta love their totes (double handle bag) as opposed to cross-body bags, and structure as opposed to slouchy. Black and brown apart, our reds sell very well here.

What is a perfect bag for a lady according to you?

In a glamour or evening bag, what matters is the size. It should never be so big that it overpowers you. Evenings are meant to express your sexiness and glamour so your bag should be slinky and delicate. For day, your bag should express where you belong in society.

The ‘perfect’ bag depends on your profession. If you have a corporate job, ideally it should be a tote, large enough so it doesn’t have a tummy sticking out! For health reasons you should choose good quality leather over synthetics. Your bag should be contemporary but never trendy, unless of course you are in the fashion biz. Those in a more arty profession can afford to carry a hobo and even synthetics if they want to express their free spirit, unless of course it looks cheap.

Who are the men who carry bags?

I have seen two types of men who are most likely to carry non-laptop bags — either they have some foreign influence or they are in the fashion world.

It’s going to be three years since Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH) bought a stake in your company. What have you learnt from the marriage?

Our relationship is bound by a confidentiality agreement so I can’t say much. One thing it has taught me is how good it is to work with another company. I used to be a loner till LVMH came along. Since then, I have had good relationships, be it with Future Group or Rohit Bal.

What is the secret of Hidesign’s success?

I think the fact that we never concentrated on revenue. Instead, we concentrated on whether the brand is expressing the feelings of its customers. There are two types of companies. The first studies customer trends and the second studies customers and their lifestyles. Hidesign belongs to the second category.

Finally, is Ayesha (the little Michelle in Black) doing more films?

Not at the moment. My daughter will leave for private school next year. She enjoyed acting in Sikander but she knew that it wasn’t going to be a commercial success.

What does your bag say about you? Tell t2@abpmail.com