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Regular-article-logo Sunday, 22 June 2025

Ashish N Soni — A designer and a gentleman

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The Telegraph Online Published 29.10.14, 12:00 AM
Indrani Dasgupta (right) was there with husband Karan Paul. He may be a suit person, but he has just eight-10 suits that he wears. “I buy three-four suits a year,” said Karan who has a lot of blue in his closet. His definition of a gentleman? “Sophistication of understanding the nuances of life a little bit better!” he smiled. Indrani rocked the androgynous look in her navy shirt, black trousers and waistcoat. “Most of my wardrobe is black. I actually wear a lot of navy, black and grey,” smiled the stunner.

Fashion designer Ashish N Soni and Chivas 18 were in town on October 17 with a tailor-made evening for gentlemen at The Oberoi Grand. t2 caught up with the fashion designer just before the “champagne reception”.

What is it with fashion designers and liquor… so many are associated with one brand or another.

It’s lifestyle. This idea happened a year ago. We thought why not curate a whole evening that celebrates a gentleman? It’s about chivalry. I have been quite insistent with most people I have invited that ‘please do bring your wives’ because without them we are incomplete. It could also be your girlfriend, sister or mother. And gentlemen enjoy good whisky and food. From my end, it’ll be men’s fashion.

If you talk to men by and large, very distinguished gentlemen, they’ll be able to talk about wine, cars, holidays and good food, but when it comes to clothing, they won’t be armed with enough information. There is a vacuum there. And, people are tired of fashion shows. We thought of taking you into the workshop of a designer. Everybody knows about a bespoke or a made-to-measure suit, but how it’s made is what nobody really knows. In the installation, there are a series of suits at various stages of making. There is also a short film that talks about all things bespoke.

And, there is a style guide which talks about what a good suit is, what to look for when buying one, what’s a good shirt, how your trousers should fit, how many times should you dry-clean a suit..... I have met clients with expensive suits who dry-clean their jackets and trousers separately. Obviously, the colours don’t match after a point! It is information that could help gentlemen look a little more dapper.

We launched the evening at the French ambassador’s house in Delhi in March this year. I have also designed a Chivas Regal Gentleman’s Limited Edition gift pack. To mix that all, we have jazz.

What makes a suit perfect?

The suit is a man’s little black dress. Comfort is crucial. While some people want to be understated, some want to express power. That’s where bespoke comes in handy. Do you drive yourself or do you have a chauffeur? Your body type is also important. Light colours like light beige, grey and blue are great for the day. Patch and slant pockets look nice on day suits. For the evenings, go for mostly English lapels and single-breasted ones. Black is always a classic. For the moment, blue is the new black… ink, navy, royal. Knuckle length for men is the thumb rule when you are getting a suit made.

Who are your favourite men in suits?

Eternal favourite would be of course Sean Connery or any other Bond. They summarise in totality what a gentleman is. It may be a visual dream…. Over the years, JRD Tata, actors Imran Khan, Rahul Khanna and Saif Ali Khan have looked dapper.

A lot of women are also rocking suits. What’s the key to pulling off an androgynous look?

It’s very big.... Be careful about the trousers. The simpler it is, the better you’d look. The jacket length should be right. A mid-hip-length jacket would be the safest route to take.

What’s that one fashion tip you would like to share?

I like wearing suits. I keep updating my wardrobe. Every time I buy something new, I remove an old one from my wardrobe first. That’s the only way you’ll have a distinguished wardrobe. That’s my single biggest tip.

Saionee Chakraborty
Which actor looks best in a suit? Tell t2@abp.in

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