Agnimitra’s final line-up on Day 4 of LFW, (below) an Anuj Sharma drape, Vivek Kumar’s creation for Westside

Bollywood designer Vikram Phadnis presented a full on theatre production starring Priyanka Chopra, Shiamak Davar and Sreesanth on Day 4 of LFW but the mood was not as happy and peppy during the day.

Earlier in the evening, Agnimitra Paul showed her collection Black Lily. A touching tribute to “those who the see the world as it feels” Agnimitra’s design details were inspired by the braille. Black and white dominated the show in linen, georgette and net. Braille letterings were created with sequins, thread and applique on the front of the garments and the back of the garments had lilies with letters of the alphabets.

Black Lily saw her signature tiered skirts along with shifts and some menswear. The collection looked over-embellished, sometimes OTT. A simpler, non-fuss line would go better with the theme.

The men’s clothes reminded you of Mithun da’s days and resembled cowboy costumes. Starlet Neetu Chandra was Agni’s showstopper. Agni took a bow with two visually impaired girls.

Agni shared the show with Ahmedabad-based designer Anuj Sharma who showed yet another brilliant stroke of his signature style in Knot For You, his S/S 2009 statement. Grecian drapes in flowy georgette and silk with just one single detail — the knot. “There is no attempt to make a knot look like a flower or a butterfly, just a casual knot,” he says. Series of draped dresses created from rectangular silk fabrics in salmon pink came up first, a knot near the stomach or neckline. Thin black strings were the only accessory he used — tied on the feet as Roman sandals, bangles, shoulder straps or just used to keep the knotted dress together. There were cowls too — cascading or controlled. The goddess line turned grey and then brown from pink, keeping the drapes equally divine. There’s one word for his clothes: Ethereal.

The afternoon saw some high street fashion, desi style. Westside roped in Narendra Kumar, Vivek Karunakaran and Vivek Kumar for some designer pret. After Sunsilk and menswear, it was Nari’s third show this season but this designer is far from fashion fatigue!

He did a chic corporate line for women, with well-fitted business trouser suits with clean shirts and also some slim skirts. The colour palette was also quite official, so lots of whites, greys and dark wines were seen. He also had a couple of casual Friday shirts and we love one classic V-neck crossover top.

Vivek Karunakaran designed a men’s range. Mostly relaxed, this menswear line echoed the safe style statement of the Menswear Day brigade. Linen pants, suits and easy shirts were the highlights of his collection.

Calcutta designer Vivek Kumar did some formal knitwear for women. Mostly tunics and dresses, some teamed with leggings, Vivek’s silhouettes were fluid and feminine. He played extensively with cowls and drapes, some nice high ribbed collars were seen too. A staple detail in the line was a knitted gold zari border. Seen on the neck, hems or sleeves, the touch of gold escalated the formal factor of the silhouettes immediately.

In the afternoon, another Calcutta label Couturewala took the ramp as Ayan and Preetika Sarkar made their LFW debut in the emerging designer category. Their collection did not reflect the current fashion flow. The silhouettes were just about okay and the detailing was sometimes a bit much. Tie-ups, fussy sleeves, warrior-like shoulders, layers, embellishments… everything was happening at the same time. But we spot some nice things though: A lame high collar sari blouse and leggings. These leggings in bronze and gold or silver and blue will work well as a separate.

Couturewala shared the show with Koga, a label by Jenjum Gadi and Jasleen Kochhar whose collection was bright and breezy. Toga gowns, draped dresses, pleated sheaths were their chosen silhouettes. They had velvety 3D embroidery but their tie-and-dye, solids and ombre pieces were definitely stronger. They also played with done-to-death rosettes on shoulders, cowls and seams.

Sailex was the third designer in this show. Pleating and draping were the mainstays of his satiny line but somehow, their silhouettes were not too flattering.