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| Dumwala Mutton Malai Seekh Kebab; Pictures by Anindya Shankar Ray |
The more I think of it, the more convinced I become that the single item of food that has evolved arguably more than any other over the last 50-odd years has to be the kebab. Especially if we think about it in an international context.
I checked, quite randomly, an encyclopaedia of cookery as well as a general one. The first was published in the early sixties and the second in the mid-eighties. The earlier publication had this to say: “Strictly speaking, a kebab is a piece of meat, but what is generally referred to as a kebab is a Shish Kebab... originating in the East, particularly in Turkey and other Arabic countries... it consists of small pieces of meat threaded on to skewers or swords and grilled.”
The later publication says this: “Kebab. Pieces of meat, seafood or vegetables threaded on to skewers and grilled; especially Shish Kebab.” The two entries, separated by about 15 years, speak volumes. From the very basic, in that short span of time we can already see the kebab developing towards an entity that chefs the world over will experiment with and come up with preparations and even processes of cooking that are far removed from the original thing.
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| Cheesy Broccoli Kebab |
Grilling over hot coals must have been the earliest way of cooking kebabs. Then came the tandoor in which they are baked, and then cooking on hot stones, griddles and even oven baking and grilling followed.
Vegetarian kebabs? “Never!”, the purists would say. But not anymore. Veg kebabs are here to stay, and personally, that suits me fine. If people were to be completely inflexible and refuse to accept the winds of change with the passage of time, thousands of the most beautiful creations in fields ranging from food to music to art to literature to just about anything would never have come into being.
Recently, during a visit to Kebab-e-Que at The Astor hotel at 15 Shakespeare Sarani, one of the city’s older haunts, I witnessed a cameo of the journey the humble kebab has made over the centuries to evolve into one of the most versatile food items, which, in my opinion, could well be described simply as “dry-cooked finger food” because no oil-frying, stewing or boiling is involved, but at the same time the items are quite far removed from what kebabs were when they were born.
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| Murgh Chakori Kebab |
Polemics aside, it was some experience. Kebab-e-Que is a restaurant serving Indian and Oriental cuisine, but they have come up with an idea that focuses on their kebabs in particular and it’s an “All You Can Eat” offer for a friendly Rs 495 during a lunchtime promo called ‘Endless Kebabs’.
They have gone as far afield as Peshawar and Jaipur for recipes; but Thai spices and even spices from the West Indies to marinate their Caribbean Chicken Kebabs are on offer. Another good thought is that because kebab after kebab may suggest to customers that it might be too dry, there is a fine selection of sauces and gravies as accompaniments as well. Not to mention the ever ready green salad and pickles.
The day I went, there were 13 varieties on offer. Among the kebabs in the vegetarian selection, my choice would be the Mushroom Moti Sheekh Kebab and the Cheesy Broccoli Kebab. The first is button mushrooms of the largest possible size stuffed with a mixture of dry fruits and paneer and then cooked on skewers in a tandoor and the second is chunky florets of broccoli with a healthy coating of cheese, seasoning and herbs cooked first in a tandoor and then finished in an oven.
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| Samundari Jalpari (Tandoori Pomfret) |
In the selection for omnivores like me, there was a good choice of traditional kebabs like Murgh Burra Kebab but Creamy Coconut Prawn Kebab marinated in coconut milk and Thai spices and Dumwali Mutton Malai Kabab were examples of the creativity of the chefs. The meat in the latter item is super soft; after cooking the kebabs on a griddle, they are covered and kept on the griddle itself so that the cooking is completed “on dum”. A little cream is also used.
The weather has become kebab-friendly. Enjoying the spread at The Astor with a cold beer or vodka is possibly just what the doc should order.
