Subhasis Ganguli raises a toast to wine and vegetarian food pairings

 

When wine and food are matched in perfect harmony, they are improved by the partnership, reaching unexpected levels of flavour. Certain classic combinations were “discovered” in Europe and some rules became established. While these rules have remained, like white wine with fish, red wine with meat, certain rules have always been challenged. This is because of newer cuisines in our diet and also because more and more people are opting to eat vegetarian and vegan food. 

We have taken Chinese, Thai and Indonesian as staple. Korean is a little more exotic and Mongolian barbecue is available in every wedding party. Pizza and pasta are now household dishes. Also, wine cannot be matched to food by colour alone; other factors such as the wine’s weight and acidity and the grape’s flavour also come into play. Another guideline is that regional specialities are often best accompanied by wine of that region — after all they evolved together. 

When the rules were being established in 19th century Europe, French chefs were in great demand throughout the continent. They used their culinary expertise, helped by many of Europe’s traditional dishes’ natural affinity to the wine of the region, to establish them, and set a new order for refined dining. A cassoulet (a rich, slow-cooked casserole) from south-west France goes very well with Cahors and Madiran wine; and Switzerland’s crisp dry white wines accompany cheese fondue. There are countless examples of regional cuisine that use local wine in their preparation. 
Tastes change with every generation. Today’s people travel far and wide, experiencing new flavours in food, and new wines, throwing up greater challenges in matching food with wine. New World wines (those produced outside the traditional wine-growing areas of Europe and West Asia), with their easy approachability and fruit-forward style, make it even more difficult.

The thought of matching only vegetarian food with wine has always been very daunting for me, and in the following suggestions, I have included both classical and regional wine partnerships as well as wines to go with new cuisines. However, there are no hard and fast rules and an individual’s taste and culture will have a strong influence on their perception of a particular flavour.

I hope it will help you while choosing your wine the next time you have guests at home or take your friends out for dinner.

NB: Riesling is an underrated grape and sherry an underrated wine. Both go very well with Indian food.

Subhasis Ganguli is the president of Kolkata Wine Commune

 

 

 

SIP & BITE

 

 

Artichoke Salad: Sancerre or Pouilly-Fume, Chinon Rose, Provence Rose, Bandol Rose. Usually most rose wines go with artichoke salad if made without any sauce. Only lime juice to be added. 

Avocado Salad: Dry to medium Riesling from Pfalz or Rheingau. Pinot gris. New World Chardonnay. Again, no sauce, only lime juice.

Asparagus: The bitterness in its taste is always a difficult choice but German Riesling and NZ Sauvignon Blanc seem to do the trick. If served with melted butter, then Australian Chardonnay.

Antipasti: Dry or medium white Italian wine like Soave, Pinot Grigio or Arneis. Light Italian reds like Valpolicella and Bardolino will also do.

Baba Ganoush or Baingan Bharta: Crisp white, preferably NZ or South African Sauvignon Blanc.

Sushi: German Riesling is a great choice. Try Champagne as well.

Pakora or Fritto Misto: A whole host of wines. Chablis, White Bordeaux, Sauvignon Blanc, Gavi, Fino Sherry, Favorita, Cava, Champagne.

Tempura: Oaked Chardonnay, Champagne or fine sparkling like Franciacorta.

Paneer Tikka: Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc, young red Bordeaux, light Italian reds like Dolcetto or Langhe Nebbiolo. 

Tandoori Aloo or Gobi: Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc or a light young red.

Crostini: Dry Italian white like Orvieto or Verdicchio.

Dim Sum: Pinot Gris or Riesling, or light New World Pinot Noir.

Mushroom Salt Pepper: Pfalz or Rheingau Riesling.

Tandoori Mushroom: Good with many reds, New World Merlot, Pomerol, Saint-Emilion. 

Grilled Mediterranean Vegetables: Mid-weight reds like Beaujolais Cru, Barbera, Tempranillo.

Couscous: Chilled Rose, or a young Shiraz, Malbec or Mourvedre.

Mezze: Fino Sherry is excellent.

Mozzarella Salad with Basil: Fresh Italian white like Soave or Friulano and Alto Adige white.

Mushroom on Toast: Your best red wine.

Baked Pasta: Lasagne and cannelloni with elaborate vegetarian filling and sauces require a grand wine, like a great Super Tuscan, or a great Bordeaux or Burgundy. Try Barolo.

Pasta in Pesto: My favourite is Barbera. Try NZ Sauvignon Blanc.

Dal Makhni-Kaali Dal: Being creamy in texture, it needs richness in the wine. An Alsace Riesling will go very well, as will Fino Sherry.

Rajma Masala: Needs sturdy reds like Corbieres, Fitou, Australian Shiraz, Californian Zinfandel or Malbec.

Indian vegetarian gravy dishes: There are various options depending on the composition of the gravy. Sherry is an excellent choice. Both Fino as well as Amontillado sherry go well with most Indian gravy items. Mosel and Pfalz Riesling of Kabinett and Spatlese level served very cold are also excellent pairings. Alsace Pinot Blanc and New World Chenin Blanc are also good matches. Rose is always a safe choice, as is sparkling wine. If you prefer to serve red wine with some tannins, then Barolo, Barbaresco or Southern Italian reds like Negroamaro or Taurasi, both of which have flavours of roasted cumin, work very well. As does Chateauneuf-du-Pape. An Australian blend of Grenache, Shiraz and Mourvedre (GSM) will also do.

DESSERTS

Chocolate: Liqueur Muscat, Tokaji Aszu, Port, Madeira and strong flavoured wines
Fruits, flans & tarts: Vouvray, Sauternes
Poached fruits: Tokaji Aszu, Riesling, Beerenauslese, Moscato
Fruit salad: Sweet sherry, vintage port
Sandesh: Moscato, sweet sparkling, sweet Vouvray
Cheesecake: Vouvray
Rabri: Sweet sparkling, sweet Muscat
Ice cream and sorbet: All fortified wines go well. Think Cream Sherry, Madeira...

 

 

 

BITERIGHT

 

What: Street Food of China Festival
Where: Red Hot Chilli Pepper, 26/2 Ballygunge Circular Road
When: August 24 to September 6, 12.30pm to 3.30pm and 7.30pm to 11.30pm
On the menu: The flavours of Chinese street food. The main spread includes Shanghai Street Chilli Noodles with Greens, Banmain, Taiwanese Pork on rice, and Taiwanese Tofu on rice. Or, you can go for Kung Pao Shrimp, Home Braised Beancurd with Broccoli or Sichuan Chilli Pepper with Nuts. 
Bill for two: Rs 1,500-plus. 

 

 

 

What: New menu and cocktails 
Where: Zaranj, 26 JL Nehru Road (near Indian Museum)
When: Noon to 3pm (closed for lunch on Tuesdays), 7.30pm to 11pm
On the menu: To celebrate its 25 years, Zaranj has laid out a special Western-influenced North-West Frontier menu. Choose from Vazireh Kebab, Machli Ishfahni and Gosht Burgah. If you’re vegetarian, the options are Kandahari Aloo, Toshka and Farsi Kebab. Staples/breads include a Rassi Naan accompanied with a Vilati Tulsi Chutney and Tamatar Aur Jaitoon Kulcha. There’s a new drink menu as well — The Art of the Cocktail — which includes Litchi and Sweet Basil Caprioska, Smoked Bourbon Mint Tulip (with hickory chip smoke) and Bequila Sunrise (a tequila-and-beer-based cocktail). 
Bill for two: Rs 1,200-plus (without alcohol), Rs 2,200-plus (with alcohol).