Pictures by Amit Datta

The tide was beginning to turn just as the first flecks of light brightened the horizon. As the waters reluctantly receded, a ghostly shape rose from its depths ? Fort Mornington.

There is more to Gadiara than the sea-like vastness created by the confluence of Roopnarayan, Damodar and Hooghly before heading out to sea.

The ruins of the fort built by Governor-General Lord Clive, which reveals itself only at the peak of the ebb-tide, is one of them. The fort, abandoned a long, long time ago, was devastated by the floods of 1942 after which, residents say, the river laid claim to it.

There is not much left of the ruins, but the sight seems imposing, especially if one hears the legends that are woven around it from the locals.

Around 90 km from the city and a three-hour drive on Bombay Road, this is a riverfront as rich in legend as the fish specialities dished out by restaurants in its vicinity.

Shaded by numerous trees and undergrowth sprinkled with wild flowers, the breeze-kissed banks, alive with the chirping of birds, are inviting even on the hottest day and an ideal retreat for stealing the quintessential 40 winks after lunch.

The evenings are a good time to visit the lighthouse or walk through the farms, now ready with crops ripe for harvest.

The weather-beaten lighthouse is an echo from an era when ships laden with spices sailed to distant lands. Though no one is allowed to enter the structure, the area around it offers a spectacular view of sunsets on the vast expanse of the river on which sailboats and bhotbhotis jostle for space. Most boat-owners here, accustomed by now to requests from visitors, are open to taking tourists on a cruise, albeit for a price.

A sprawling sandbank, Mayachar for residents, makes an ideal getaway for those not content even after getting away from the festive fervour that has consumed the city. The edges of this ?private beach? slope gradually into the placid waters making it a great place to take a dip or thrash around.

A stone?s throw away from the banks, a kuchcha road snakes through a fisherman?s village and the nets kept out to dry and people working on boats offer a behind-the-scenes look at how much it takes to ensure the steady supply of fish to the city?s markets.

How to get there:

Buses ply from Howrah to Gadiara all day or take a train to Bagnan and go the rest of the way by bus

Where to stop:

Exploring the place or resting on the riverfront is a good option, or make yourself comfortable in Roopnarayan Tourist Complex. Double-bed rooms Rs 350. The complex also has a restaurant.

Bargaining is advised for those interested in going to Mayachar