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Regular-article-logo Tuesday, 29 April 2025

Bitter truths of rasgulla makers

Flyover affects business at Pahala

ANWESHA AMBALY Published 27.07.16, 12:00 AM
Pahala rasgulla being sold at makeshift shops on NH-5 as road construction goes on in the vicinity. Pictures by Sanjib Mukherjee

Bhubaneswar, July 26: The Pahala rasgulla is sweet, but when it comes to business it is leaving a bitter taste for its makers.

As the state government is going all out to get the geographical indication (GI) tag for the delectable sweet, the lack of basic amenities remains a major concern for Pahala confectioners.

More than 300 people are engaged in making the sweet at around 80 kiosks located on the NH-5 between Bhubaneswar and Cuttack. But these confectioner families, who have been in the trade for over 70 years, rue slow business and poor infrastructure.

While the confectioners are upbeat about the state obtaining GI tag for the sweet delicacy, the fact that their business is not growing is enough reason for them to feel disturbed.

"If the government supports us in augmenting our livelihood, we are ready to assist them. We are anxious because business has been bad over the past few months," said Dushashan Pradhan, assistant secretary of the Pahala Rasgulla Bybasayi Mahasangha.

Earlier, there used to be around 40 shops on either side of the highway at Pahala. But, a flyover that came up at Pahala last year has done the trade a disservice. The business establishments have dispersed. Also, the shops that were on the route from the state capital to Cuttack have lost their visibility at Pahala because of the flyover. The entire stretch is also being widened and work is still on.

"There used to be particular stretch on the highway that people used to identify with Pahala rasgulla. With the construction of the flyover and the following widening of the road, we have been forced to resettle in a scattered manner in the area. In seven years, we have shifted our kiosks at least five or six times," said Pradhan.

The confectioners have now set up kiosks mostly on private land and have to pay Rs 7,000 towards rent for each kiosk.

About 1,000 families are dependent on the Pahala rasgulla business. Another confectioner, Debendra Kumar Sahoo, said basic amenities such as water were not available in the area. He added that lack of quality packaging options was another major problem.

"We have been using polythene bags to package the sweets. But, many tourists who have visited us have criticised us for this. We do not have enough money to avail better packaging options such as airtight containers or clay pots like they do in Bengal. For exports, we also need a packaging system that is cost effective and safe for the environment," Sahoo said.

The confectioners have also recently registered themselves under a society. "Earlier, there was lack of unity among us. But, to get government help for better business, it was necessary to come together and work as a team," added Pradhan.

The confectioners are also trying to add variety to the sweet to attract more customers. "We are making chocolate rasgullas and also trying to make other sweets such as chhena poda and gaja," said secretary of the mahasangha Niranjan Behera.

The state ministry of micro, small and medium enterprises, which had initiated the GI registration process in May last year, plans to develop the trade as a cluster. The government says it has entrusted the Entrepreneurship Development of India (EDI) with preparing a diagnostic study report on the positives and negatives of taking this step.

"They have completed the report and we will get it shortly. It will include the paraphernalia for lifestyle improvement, providing the confectioners with a permanent place, commercialising the sweet and other intervention required for the establishment of common facilities for the sellers," said general manager, district industries centre of Bhubaneswar, D.S. Mishra.

He said a number of workshops were being held for the confectioners at Pahala on the need for GI, how it will help them, packaging alternatives and other issues.

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