When Rita Bhimani first received a call in 1982, inviting her to write a food column for The Telegraph, she didn’t know that it would be the start of a lifelong journey of culinary discovery. From street food in the bustling bylanes of north Kolkata to the fine-dining in Europe and beyond, she spun stories of taste, travel, and tradition. Now, with her latest book, Meandering Mouthfuls, Bhimani curates a vibrant anthology of her experiences. Ahead of the launch of her book on March 27 at Starmark in South City Mall, Bhimani spoke to My Kolkata’s food writer about her journey so far, and more.
Edited excerpts from the conversation follow.
A journey of gastronomic exploration
Bhimani’s professional journey began in public relations, but her passion for writing led her to diverse subjects. When she began writing a column, Eating Out, for the Sunday magazine of The Telegraph, food writing was still uncharted territory. “I sat down with the editor and said, ‘Oh, I’d love to!’ without even thinking how I would do it,” she recalled. “Those early days involved having the best chingri cutlets in Chacha’s [Hotel] in north Kolkata or indulging in the famed Golbari’s kosha mangsho in Shyambazar,” she said, painting a picture of Kolkata’s culinary scene back in the day when only a handful of notable eateries existed, making her task both a challenge and an adventure.
With time, Bhimani’s passion for food took her beyond Kolkata. In Meandering Mouthfuls, she recounts her foray into the flavours across ten countries, from the spicy sambol of Sri Lanka to braai (barbecues) in South Africa. She started going to “places that people talked about but were not formally written about.”
Bhimani’s passion for food took her beyond Kolkata to ‘places that people talked about but were not formally written about’
Her book is more than just a culinary chronicle; it’s a cultural odyssey, believes Bhimani since food is always deeply tied to culture. “Every dish tells a story. In Sri Lanka, I found that the influence of the Portuguese, Dutch, and British left an indelible mark on their cuisine. In South Africa, Malay spices intermingled with traditional African flavors to create a unique fusion.”
‘Eating Out’ to ‘Meandering Mouthfuls’
The book also has stories and recipes from Bhimani’s close circle of friends and acquaintances from around the world. Each dish represents tradition and history.
In the foreword of Meandering Mouthfuls, author and politician Shashi Tharoor mentions how Bhimani’s Eating Out column became a cultural phenomenon long before the food-blogging era.
Rita Bhimani is a modern Indian Tantalus, bringing global culinary delights to her readers
— Shashi Tharoor
Tharoor commends her for capturing not just the essence of food but also the stories, traditions, and histories that come with every dish. He notes that her writing tantalises the senses and inspires wanderlust, making Meandering Mouthfuls a compelling read for food lovers and travellers.
Bhimani on new culinary trends
With the shift from print columns to video blogging, food journalism has transformed and Bhimani embraces this change, enjoying the visual appeal of food vlogs. “I love watching videos where people actually taste the food and give their genuine review,” she said, though she remains sceptical of influencers who order massive amounts of food merely for the spectacle. When asked about fusion food, Bhimani acknowledged the rise of modern progressive cuisine but believes that authenticity remains vital. “I prefer the term ‘creative cuisine’ over ‘fusion.’ It’s about using natural ingredients in inventive ways rather than arbitrarily mixing flavors,” she argued, recalling a humorous incident when someone attempted unlikely pairings with tandoori chicken resulting in a disaster dish.
Bhimani hopes that her book will inspire people to explore food with curiosity and enthusiasm
Global palate, local heart
When asked if she had a favourite among the places she has travelled to and the food she has tasted, Bhimani said it was impossible to pick. “From the seafood of Spain to the hearty gumbos of Louisiana, every region has its own magic,” she said. However, rice-based dishes — “like paella and Bengali mishti pulao” — hold a special place in her heart.
With Meandering Mouthfuls, Bhimani hopes to inspire others to explore food with the same curiosity and enthusiasm that has fueled her journey. Whether it is a quiet eatery in Kolkata or an exotic meal in Japan, she believes that food is not just about taste — it’s a gateway to history, culture, and human connection.
