The “meaty” breakfast menu at Shiraz The Golden Restaurant; (below) its speciality — biryani Pictures by Rashbehari Das

It was in 1941, during World War II, that the late Md Arshad Ali and his friend, the late Md Hussain, purchased a plot of land at 56 Park Street. The duo opened a little eatery by the name of Taj Hotel. Never heard of it? In a decade-and-a-half, it was renamed Golden Restaurant. Still doesn’t ring a bell? In 1970, a six-letter word was added to the title that made all the difference — Shiraz.

Fast forward to 2011 and Shiraz The Golden Restaurant, synonymous with arguably (and may the argument continue!) the best mutton and chicken biryani in Calcutta, has spread its wings to foreign shores. In March, it opened in Bank Street, Bur Dubai in partnership with the Al Abbas Group (franchisee of international brands like Marry Brown, Outback Steakhouse, Carino’s, Fish & Co.). “Enquiries have poured in from Sharjah and Abu Dhabi and we will consider them once we complete our four-star hotel on Park Street,” says Ishtiaque Ahmad, one of the two directors of Shiraz.

Its flagship outlet that has recently hopped across the street to 135 Park Street will see in its former place of pride a 46-room “business hotel” with a cafe, 24-hour coffee shop and a “fine-dine” Awadhi restaurant (without liquor). “We hope to open it before the Pujas,” adds Ahmad.

In the east, the menu is extensive — after its 12 city outlets, Shiraz started serving it up last month in Durgapur, while Siliguri, Asansol and Burdwan are in the pipeline. Nationally, Shiraz (present in Banglore via its sister concern Lazeez) is considering Mumbai and Delhi on the list of cities to head to.

l Shiraz branches sprouting here and there will follow the master format — a fuss-free look, with white tabletop and seating for 30-50 people. But will rapid expansion not mean compromising on quality? “We will send our trained chefs to each outlet to ensure the same quality,” says Ahmad.

The Shiraz outlets in Calcutta that do the best business are the Park Street, Ajaynagar and Dum Dum ones, in that order.

The Mughlai restaurant — known to host celebs then and now like MF Husain, Amjad Khan, Javed Akhtar, Sourav Ganguly and Shahid Afridi — is also promoting its breakfast menu. Open from 5am to 9am, “most of the food is over by 8am” say the men who serve dishes like Mutton Queema, Special Stew, Mutton Liver, Paya (trotters), Zuban (tongue) and Mugazh (brain).

The regulars at the restaurant are usually the Pathans who prefer a meaty meal that costs between Rs 150 and Rs 200 for two, but Shiraz is hoping to cater to morning walkers and early risers too.

---

Wasi Ahmed at work in Shiraz’s kitchen.Picture by Rashbehari Das

Wasi Ahmed has been manning the Shiraz kitchen for the past 43 years. Though he officially retired in 2010, the 60-plus ustad is still seen hustling about the Park Street restaurant making sure each masala is ground to perfection.

“I came to Calcutta from Bihar as a 20-year-old boy in search of work,” says Ahmed who was consequently employed by Md Shamsuddin, the head chef of Shiraz until his death around 20 years ago. The kitchen story goes that Shamsuddin was a direct descendent of the khansamas who came to Calcutta from Lucknow with Nawab Wajid Ali Shah, the last ruler of Awadh.

“Till date, we follow his recipes down to each gram of each ingredient. Nothing has changed,” says Ahmed. But the chef is no novice himself. His colleagues reveal that Ahmed is called Halim ka Ustad, referring to the beef stew, slow-cooked with spices for seven-eight hours, a speciality in the month of Ramazan. “I always had a passion for cooking,” explains Ahmed, though he chooses to take a break whenever he visits his family in Bihar. “At home I eat ghar ka khana prepared by my wife,” he says shyly.

Unlike many other eateries that prepare their dishes from a “master gravy”, Ahmed says that each item at Shiraz has its own set of masalas. Even the saffron (now Rs 1.5 lakh a kilo) is bought directly from farmers in Kashmir for its superior quality. The three ingredients he swears by are elaichi, dalchini and javetri, without which “no dish at Shiraz is complete”.

With his expertise in Awadhi food, no wonder Wasi is a name to

reckon with in many a Calcutta household. “Sometimes, he even steals an evening to cook for the Khullar family who own the Amber restaurant,” says a smiling Ishtiaque Ahmad, the owner of Shiraz.

Karo Christine Kumar

Does Shiraz serve the best biryani in town? Tell t2@abp.in