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A fashion show is like a film poster. Just as a poster gives glimpses of the highlights of a film, a show is supposed to convey the essence of a whole collection in a nutshell,” explains designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee.
Indeed, the culmination of a designer’s creative efforts for months on end is at best a 30-minute capsule, which to a large extent decides the fate of a collection.
The clothes showcased on the ramp can shout out their values to a fair extent, but it’s the presentation that adds that extra edge to the package without which even a brilliant collection can go unnoticed. While presentation can work wonders and invite rave reviews for even the most mundane range of clothes, a sloppy ramp affair can mar the fate of a perfectly good line.
And to create the right ambience, a careful mix of a number of factors ? venue, music, light, choreography, styling, models and even the audience ? have to be balanced.
“No matter how good the clothes are, if it is not presented in the right way, it’ll never be a hit with the audience. And a good presentation includes everything from make-up and choreography to even backstage co-ordination,” observes designer Shantanu Goenka.
Goodlife takes a look at the factors that go behind putting together a successful fashion show?
Venue
The location sets the mood for a fashion show and gives the guests an idea of what to expect. The banquet of a five-star hotel is usually the first choice for show organisers, with the size of the hall being of prime consideration. “A spacious hall with a high ceiling is a good venue for a fashion show,” says model-turned-event manager Nicola Gomes. “There must be enough space for a long ramp running into the audience seating area. This will ensure the guests get a close view of the clothes,” she adds.
Event manager Sanchita Kushary Bose of Dream Merchants opines however that the desired ambience can be created even on the lawns of a designer’s residence if the crowd size is small. But she strictly rules out a nightclub as the venue for a serious fashion show. “People don’t pay attention to clothes being showcased in a nightclub. Everyone there is out to have fun and they are busy drinking and dancing,” stresses Sanchita.
Music
This is perhaps the most important ingredient of a fashion show, following the clothes, of course. “Music is the soul of a fashion show,” smiles Nicola.
The type of music accompanying a collection varies according to the genre of clothes. While percussion as well as a lot of classical fusion gels well with ethnic ensembles, for westerns, it can be rock ’’ roll, R&B or house. Lounge music is particularly popular with club wear and lounge wear lines.
“I use a lot of folk music ? Bengali and Bangladeshi ? with Indian clothes, as well as classical vocals. In general, I draw from world music and mix and match them a lot to create fusion,” says Sanchita.
The music should be in sync with the theme of a collection, feels Shantanu. “Music should convey the theme of a collection so people get into the mood instantly. It plays a major role in creating the ambience,” says the designer whose collection Krishna Couture was accompanied by sounds of cows mooing at the India Fashion Week.
Light
Here too, the selection depends on the kind of clothes to be showcased, with the colour scheme of a collection being of primary consideration. White and yellow lights are the safest bets as these are neutral and hence don’t play havoc with the colour of the garments.
The standard light setting comprises 24 to 30 power cans, one follow light, two scanners, two strobes and two smoke machines. While the basic equipment usually remains the same, the combination can vary depending on the effect desired.
“I usually avoid red lights while showcasing ethnic wear because there’s a stress on the red family in Indian clothes anyhow. Also bright blue and pink lights are avoidable as these tend to alter the colours of the clothes,” says Nicola.
The light placement technique also depends on the subject on display and the choreography. Jewellery shows, for instance, often use spot lighting so that the designs are showed off to full effect. Follow lights are often used to introduce a model on the ramp.
Choreography
This takes into account almost every aspect of presentation ? right from styling and draping of the clothes and use of accessories to the catwalk and the time span of a show. “A choreographer has to have a good sense of styling and dressing so that he or she can highlight the clothes,” says Sanchita.
The current trend in fashion choreography calls for fast and racy no-drama catwalk, but the pace is sometimes deliberately slackened to give the audience ample scope to appreciate a particularly intricate piece. Solo ramp walk ? one model walking at a time making eye contact with the audience ? is also the in thing in catwalk right now. “Models gazing at the guests helps involve them in the show,” explains Nicola.
Styling
The right look ? created either through make-up and hairstyle or with the use of props ? ensures half the battle is won. “The styling adds the element of drama that makes a show successful. If you have to convey your creative idea to an audience in 30 minutes, you need much more than the clothes to do the talking,” says Shantanu.
So, whether it’s an elaborate, outlandish hairstyle, striking face paint or wacky accessories, the idea is to give the audience something to talk about. “When Rohit Bal made the male models wear saris and sindoor at a fashion show last year, many people liked it and many did not. But everyone talked about it and that’s what matters,” feels Sanchita.
Common add-ons include chunky bags, glasses, hand-fans and masks, but even dramatic props like festive and religious motifs can be used to complement the clothes.
Models
“Seasoned models really make a difference to a show. While they can carry off the clothes to best effect, good models can even cover design flaws,” feels Shantanu.
Pirouetting beauties who walk well and make the right facial expression are more appreciated than pretty faces, according to choreographers.
Crowd
And lastly, it’s the composition of the audience that makes or breaks a show, say designers and event managers. “Drawing up a proper guest list featuring the relevant people will only ensure that your show is successful. The designer should know his or her target audience,” says Sanchita.
“If the members of the audience don’t understand fashion at all, they will either get bored and walk out midway or sit staring at the models with bored faces. That won’t serve the purpose of a show at all,” she cautions.







