On the Chhotanagpur Plateau, barely 60 km from Ranchi, lies the idyllic hamlet of McCluskieganj. Once a bastion of the Anglo-Indian community, the place is known as Lapra or Ganj among the residents.

If you are driving to the getaway, take the road to Daltonganj from Ranchi. Bijupara is about 36 km down the road. From there, turn right towards Khalari. A short drive of 13 km will get you to a small village called Chama. Take the left and drive 12 km to McCluskieganj.

On the way, you will pass a huge hill on your left, which by virtue of its unusual shape is called McCluskie’s Nose. Further down, about 6 km from the Ganj, there is a village called Duli, where a mandir and a mosque stand side by side.

Three kilometres ahead is a huge Barh/Gullar tree which the early settlers had aptly named Sunset Point. Those of you who like to go off the beaten track will enjoy the journey immensely.

A little backgrounder is in order here. Way back in 1932, amidst the tumultuous struggle for Independence, a real estate agent based in Calcutta came up with the idea of creating a retreat for the Anglo-Indians. He found the perfect spot in the Lapra forest, which was then under the rule of Raja Ratu.

After acquiring 10,000 acres in the forest McCluskie, the agent, wrote to nearly 200,000 Anglo-Indians inviting them to settle there. Tigers and jackals used to roam around the hamlet, so only about 300 took up the offer.

The properties ranged from 1 acre to 100 acres, brimming with all types of fruit trees, ornamental plants, flowering plants, teak and sal. The houses were constructed in typical European style, with a portico, large balconies and high roofs. The owners soon became known for hosting grand banquets.

Moved by the beauty of McCluskieganj, a journalist in the US described it as a “fabled land where the sienna-tiled houses seem picked out of a fairy tale, where butterflies spatter their colour with gay abandon, where the rays of the sun get breathless tearing past dense forest canopy, where the river flows fearlessly, where the hibiscus grows wantonly and where everywhere there is a ceremony of innocence”.

Situated at an altitude of 450 m, the weather is glorious in this hamlet. Even at the peak of summer, the mercury rarely crosses 37 degrees Celsius. The humidity, too, is low, making the place ideal for a holiday any time of the year.

Numerous residents have set up guest houses that serve as tourist lodges during the holidays and hostel for schoolchildren when Don Bosco is in session. The guest houses provide food and lodging and even arrange for cabs for trips to the river, Chhoti Nadi. The transportation charges are nominal and the river is safe with no one ever hearing of flash floods. Dip your feet in the water and enjoy the view of the hilly terrain.

Small shops dot the area and the people are friendly and hospitable. I have been visiting McCluskieganj since 1988 and have never had a less than memorable experience.

Going

Nearest railhead is McCluskieganj station. Catch Shaktipunj Express, which leaves Howrah station at 2.30 pm and reaches McCluskieganj at 12.30 am. If you inform a guest house in advance, a taxi will pick you up at the station. The other option is taking an overnight train from Howrah to Ranchi (Howrah-Hatia Express is an option. It leaves Howrah at 9.55 pm daily and reaches Ranchi at 7.30 am). A taxi to McCluskieganj from Ranchi would cost Rs 700. You can also fly to Ranchi.

Staying

Guest houses run by the local residents provide food and lodging at reasonable rates. Some of the options are Ganguly Guest House,

Highland Guest House and those run by Dennis Meredith, Noel Gordon and Brian Christencen. Hire a taxi for sightseeing