Christmas on Park Street begins early and stretches well beyond December 25, lasting until the nip in the air loosens its grip. And if veteran restaurateurs on the city’s favourite food street are to be believed, this festive season has seen Calcuttans not just eating and drinking more — but spending more.

The surge, they said, is not necessarily in volumes consumed but in the price points customers are willing to embrace. Premium spirits are moving faster than ever before. Single malts, high-end gin and top-shelf vodka are being ordered more frequently than in previous years, pointing to a season of indulgence.

At Flurys, cakes, savouries and a special festive menu featuring turkey have been served till 1am since December 17. Even at closing time, staff are often forced to turn diners away.

“Christmas time puts people in a festive mood, and their spending goes up,” said Nitin Kothari, owner of Mocambo, Peter Cat and Peter Hu ?. “People enjoy themselves with family and indulge when it comes to food. They definitely upgrade their choice of liquor.”

Across Park Street, conversations over the past week have echoed the same sentiment: this is a season to splurge. By 12.15pm on Saturday, a slow but steady queue had already begun forming outside Peter Cat. Most popular restaurants report “consistent queues”, helped along by the season’s marked chill.

Minimum temperatures hovered between 12 and 14° Celsius over the past few days — chilly by Calcutta standards.

“Compared to last Christmas, business has been significantly better, especially at our Park Street outlet,” said Naman Dhandhania, partner at Fabbrica. “We have seen a 20 to 25% rise in revenue.”

Fabbrica’s second outlet is in Salt Lake.

“Our alcoholic beverage menu has seen drastic growth. In winter, everybody is celebratory. Alcohol sales are up by 18 to 20%, while non-alcoholic beverages like hot chocolate are selling at nearly double the usual rate,” Dhandhania added.

Among the fast-moving items at Fabbrica are Johnnie Walker Black Label, Don Julio tequila, Malfi Con Limone, Sensi Chianti and Barbera d’Asti.

For many, Park Street’s famed Christmas lights are as much the draw as the food. “The lights act like a magnet,” said Pratap Daryanani, partner at Oasis. “We stay open till 1am because families with children come to have dinner and see the lights without being pushed around.”

Even seasoned restaurateurs have taken note of the scale of celebrations. “There’s a definite surge in the number of people dining out. I don’t think any other city celebrates Christmas the way Calcutta does,” said Siddharth, son of Nitin Kothari. “Even a working Monday was exceptional.”

While Durga Puja is busy, the Christmas season stretches longer.

“It’s been a terrific December, and it’s heartening,” Siddharth added.

Park Street’s appeal also extends beyond the city. “During Christmas, we get guests from abroad who want a slice of Park Street’s fun,” said Viraj Kothari, owner of Bar-B-Q. The restaurant’s new confectionery brand Lille, at Bar-B-Q and One Step Up, has received what he described as a phenomenal response.

At Flurys, footfall for dining is up by around 20% compared to last year. Open from 6am to 1am, the restaurant has extended its hours till January 4. “We have a curated Christmas menu with turkey and duck that people prefer for dinner,” said manager Chiranjib Maity. “For us, Christmas is busier than Durga Puja because during Puja the crowds are spread across the city.”