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Exquisite weaves on the ramp: a preview to Art in Life

A fashion show by members of the Ladies Study Group at the preview of Art In Life set the tone for CIMA’s annual exhibition

Nayantara Mazumder Published 13.09.23, 06:41 PM

Video content: Soumyajit Dey, Amit Datta; video editing: Somak Sarkar

It is that time of the year again; Art in Life, the annual lifestyle exhibition of the Centre of International Modern Art, is officially underway at CIMA Gallery. Every year, Art in Life gives viewers and buyers a holistic glimpse into the richness and intricacies of Indian textiles, weaves and crafts — be it saris, dress materials, sculptures, jewellery, bags, accessories or home decor. This year, the pre-Durga Puja exhibition and sale is bigger and better than ever before — and, as such, it was only fitting that the preview to the official opening of the exhibition be unlike anything before it as well.

Members of the Ladies Study Group don stunning sarees, from kanjeevarams and Sambalpuri weaves to jamdanis and Benarasis, as part of a preview fashion show at CIMA in the lead-up to Art in Life

Members of the Ladies Study Group don stunning sarees, from kanjeevarams and Sambalpuri weaves to jamdanis and Benarasis, as part of a preview fashion show at CIMA in the lead-up to Art in Life Photos: Amit Datta

Thus, guests at the preview, many of whom were dignitaries and eminent individuals in their fields, were treated to a fashion show – but one with a twist. The saris donned for the show were some of the most beautiful and intricate weaves from 15 states in India, and the models were eminent members of the Ladies Study Group, the women’s wing of the Indian Chamber of Commerce. From the LSG president, Bhawna Agarwal, to the vice-president, Minnie Juneja, several members of the organisation walked the ‘ramp’ at CIMA, highlighting with pride the richness of the nation’s crafts traditions. And it was only apt that this was happening at CIMA – its director, Rakhi Sarkar, has, after all, been a past president of the LSG herself.

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 Rakhi Sarkar, director, CIMA, talks about the genesis of Art in Life and (right) Pratiti Basu Sarkar, chief administrator, CIMA, welcomes the audience

Rakhi Sarkar, director, CIMA, talks about the genesis of Art in Life and (right) Pratiti Basu Sarkar, chief administrator, CIMA, welcomes the audience

‘At CIMA, it is all equal, it is all art’

“Welcome to CIMA, to India, and to the glory of the handmade — made by humans, not AI,” said the chief administrator of CIMA, Pratiti Basu Sarkar, with her characteristic sharp wit, ahead of the fashion show. Highlighting the grave divisions made within the country between what is considered “high art” and “poor craft”, she emphasised that “at CIMA, it is all equal — it is all art”.

Rakhi Sarkar elaborated further on the genesis of Art in Life, and why the endeavour is so close to her heart. “Art in Life is about the heart and soul of India,” she said. “It is about how the weavers live, their craft, and the labour that goes into the excellence of the products they make – excellence that they are not adequately remunerated for.”

“When we started CIMA, I was advised to stick to ‘high art’, be very ‘discerning’, and steer clear of folk and tribal art,” she reminisced. “But we soon realised that we could not do that. We are, after all, a part of India; with this approach, we would be neglecting a vast majority of the exquisite art produced all over this great nation.”

Apart from the saris they wore, the LSG members also displayed other saris weaves during the fashion show

Apart from the saris they wore, the LSG members also displayed other saris weaves during the fashion show

A collector’s dream, an education in Indian crafts

With the germinating seed of this inclusive approach was born Art in Life, which has, since its inception, been a collector’s dream and an education in Indian handicrafts. As Mukul Agarwal, past president of the LSG, introduced the incredible saris and weaves on display, the LSG members appeared before the audience with grace and flair, highlighting the detailed artistry put into the creation of each garment: from Tamil Nadu’s pure mulberry silk kanjeevarams, that take weeks to complete, to the unique ikkat craftsmanship of Sambalpuri silks and the dyeing techniques of Dongria masterpieces from Odisha; from unique Garad silk sarees which owe their origin to Murshidabad, and are worn by women during religious rituals, to exquisite jamdanis, the weaving technique of which is touted to be the most advanced in the world.

The consuls general of China and Germany in Kolkata, Zha Liyou and Manfred Auster, converse at the CIMA Art in Life preview show and (right) the consul-general of France in Kolkata, Didier Talpain, appreciates the crafts on display

The consuls general of China and Germany in Kolkata, Zha Liyou and Manfred Auster, converse at the CIMA Art in Life preview show and (right) the consul-general of France in Kolkata, Didier Talpain, appreciates the crafts on display

With the focus of this year’s Art in Life being Lucknowi and Udaipuri crafting traditions, several saris featuring superlative chikankari and zardozi work were also shown.

A sari with exquisite chikankari work is shown

A sari with exquisite chikankari work is shown

Moreover, apart from the works and craftsmanship of master weavers from all over India, the exhibition also features clothes made by contemporary designers like Roshe, Sonam Dubal and Parama Ghosh, and design houses like Beej, SHE Kantha, Kantha by Mahua Lahiri and Sampa’s Boutique, among many others.

Actor Swastika Mukherjee talks to Rakhi Sarkar as viewers mill around CIMA, looking at the crafts on display

Actor Swastika Mukherjee talks to Rakhi Sarkar as viewers mill around CIMA, looking at the crafts on display

“I am very passionate about everything made in India, and I celebrate the country in every way that I can,” said Madhu Neotia, founder of India Story and past LSG president. “Art in Life is a fantastic acknowledgement of all India’s wonderful art and design, all under one roof. The way in which the ladies of LSG wore the sarees for the fashion show really made a difference; when you see an exquisitely-crafted garment on someone, it makes a far greater impact than just seeing the same garment displayed on a shelf.”

Madhu Neotia, founder of India Story and past president of the Ladies Study Group

Madhu Neotia, founder of India Story and past president of the Ladies Study Group

What do the ladies of LSG, many of whom appeared as part of a fashion show for the first time, feel about the experience? “It is incredible to be doing a fashion show for Art in Life, and on behalf of LSG,” said Enu Bala, executive committee member of the LSG, who wore an unusual black and gold Garad silk, departing from the usual white and off-white hues of the saree. Minnie Juneja, the vice-president of LSG, commended CIMA for the initiative. “I, too, am walking the ramp for the first time, and I anticipate that it will be both fun and a learning experience, much like Art in Life itself!” she said. Her sentiments were echoed by Shuchi Rajgarhia, Sangeeta Mehta and Manisha Kajaria, all of whom are on the LSG’s sub-committee.

“All of us who walked for the fashion show love handloom sarees and products,” said Bhawna Agarwal, LSG president. “With Art in Life, CIMA is doing important work for Indian handicrafts, and it was an honour and a pleasure for the LSG to be a part of this.”

CIMA Art in Life will be on till October 20, from 11am to 8pm, every day.

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