Diverse cultures, colonial influence and arable lands make Bengal the hotspot of India’s ever-changing foodscape. Add to that the undying love for hyperlocal dishes and you get a selection of ingredients that have now made their way to gourmet kitchens. From fresh to fermented, these gems, which have been part of the traditional Bengali food scene for centuries, are now also finding their way to fine-dine menus in the city. My Kolkata picked a few favourites and explored the best places to source them in the city
Gondhoraj lebu
Also known as Rangpur lime, the gondhoraj lemon is Bengal’s answer to kaffir lime. The king of lemons in Bengal and a summer favourite, these large oblong fruits are not very juicy but have the most refreshing floral-citrusy scent. It is perfect to elevate your bowl of simple dal-rice or any curry and rice, or even your basic lemonade. The leaves can be added to ghol or chaas for a refreshing summer drink and you can also use the juice and zest in desserts and bakes
Where to buy: Any Kolkata bazaar
Dudh chhata mushroom (Milky mushroom)
An indigenous mushroom variety, the large milk-white milky mushrooms are meaty and packed with umami flavours. You can grill or roast them or add them to curries and stir fries. Locally known as dudh chhata (literally, milk-hued umbrellas), they are not always available but can be found in some bazaars across the city
Where to buy: Gariahat bazaar
Dhenki or Boudaga shaak (Fiddlehead fern)
An ingredient that was largely foraged before it found a place in mainstream markets, most locals know it as dhenki or boudaga shaak, and it has long been a staple across Bengali homes. Fiddleheads are tightly curled new fronds of certain kinds of ferns and are also known as fiddleheads. They have a grassy, asparagus-like taste and can be stir-fried, blanched, or used in other preparations
Where to buy: Most Kolkata bazaars
Aam ada (Mango ginger)
The curcuma amada or mango ginger is not ginger at all. Closely related to the turmeric family, it has a ginger-like appearance and the aroma of green mangoes, thus the name aam ada. What sets it apart is the taste which combines the flavour profiles of ginger (minus the sharpness) and green mangoes. It is used in pickles, curries, stir fries, marinades and can also make a great composite butter
Where to buy: Any Kolkata bazaar in winter months
Bandel Cheese
The Portuguese brought the art of cheese making to Bengal, and one of the state’s most famous cheeses is the one from erstwhile Portuguese town Bandel. Available in smoked and plain varieties, Bandel cheese has a crumbly, almost feta-like texture but is harder and sharper with a smoky taste. It works very well in salads and can turn your everyday grilled cheese into a gourmet sandwich. Also try it with crackers and jam as an innovative tapas
Where to buy: Some shops in New Market, Biswa Bangla stores, and The Whole Hog Deli
Bengali ghee
Ghee seems rather commonplace to be included in a list of gourmet ingredients, but this isn’t any regular ghee. The typical Bengali ghee is caramelised for a little longer, resulting in darker coloured and more aromatic ghee with a sweeter and more intense flavour. Add a dollop to hot rice, pair it with some sides and you get a comfort meal like no other. You can also try this in sauces in place of butter for a nuanced flavour profile
Where to buy: Most grocery stores and sweet shops. MK recommends Balaram Mullick and Radharaman Mullick, and the stores of Ramkrishna Mission
Aam kasundi
Most people are familiar with kasundi — the sharp mustard sauce from Bengal that almost tastes like wasabi. During summers, this mildly fermented mustard sauce is made with slivers of green mango to give you a sharp, piquant, smoky mango-mustard sauce. Use it as a pickle with some ghee-rice and sides, as a dip for your fried snacks, in your salad or sandwich dressing, or even in marinades. If you want to make it at home, find a recipe here
Where to buy: Biswa Bangla stores, co-ops and fairs like the government-organised Sabala Melas
Goyna or Gohona Bori
Bori is a quintessentially Bengali ingredient. The sun-dried lentil parcels are fried and used in a variety of preparations from stir fries to curries. One of the bori-making traditions of Bengal is the making of goyna bori which are shaped to look like jewellery (goyna or gohona). Their unique, artistic shapes give them an edge over the regular boris
Where to buy: Biswa Bangla stores, Amar Khamar stores
