Food means different things to different people. For a vast majority, it is first and foremost a source of sustenance and fuel, a means to keep going from day to day. For others, it is also a source of joy and pleasure. But for everyone, food is a repository of history, memory, family and creativity – be it family recipes that have been handed down through generations, or new and original dishes people have come up with themselves.
And all legacies in food, generational or individual, deserve to be preserved for posterity. How many of us treasure our grandmothers’ rannar khatas, which are tightly packed with their decades of intricate understanding of food, as a science, as a source of love and as a marker of familial and cultural history? Those valuable works of food writing are irreplaceable. But there are also other methods of recording food history emerging – methods that honour the community. The newest example of this is The Tolly Cookbook.
A glimpse inside the cookbook
A rich collection of 125 recipes shared by members of the Tollygunge Club, The Tolly Cookbook fittingly marks the club’s 125th anniversary. A labour of love brought out by the Tollygunge Club Library, the cookbook has been curated with care to reflect the sheer diversity of the food habits, regional tastes and family legacies of several club members across the spectrums of age, religion, language, ethnicity and preferences. In this regard, it is truly a work of community-building – a recipe book that all Tolly members can call their own. Some recipes even hail from Brazil and Ethiopia!
The cookbook is meticulously arranged under several categories for ease of navigation while searching for something to whip up. These include ‘Sips & Bites’, ‘Sides & Salads’, ‘Pulses’, ‘Vegetables’ and more. The non-vegetarian recipes for mains are categorised under ‘Poultry’, ‘Fish & Prawn’ and ‘Meats’. Those looking for their carb fix will find what they are searching for under ‘Rice & Bread’ (and they won’t be disappointed). ‘Chutneys & Pickles’ get their own section, and, of course, almost everyone’s favourite part of a meal – the ‘Sweets’. Adding a special touch is a section dedicated to the hard work and culinary excellence of Tolly’s chefs, the secrets behind whose creations are revealed under the category ‘From the Shamiana’, alluding to a popular spot in the club where members can relax, look at the golfing greens and enjoy a few delectable bites.
A watercolour illustration of the club found in the cookbook
Above all, food is about love; it is about remembering and telling stories. Some recipes are interesting variations of old favourites, while others are innovative. Find in these pages the stories attached to all the recipes, including why they are called what they are, and members’ first memories of eating, feeding or learning to cook the dishes. From coolers to akuri, sufut to avial, shukto to chital machher muitha, khow suey to kofta curry, paella to prawn balchow, mutton grashik to pattori, brain masala to Arabian loaf, mutton poloo to salted beef, kandalee to Doro Wat, and lemon tart to boozy bread-and-butter pudding – each tale and each recipe is fascinating.
Members speak
Anil Mukerji
TT archives“The Tolly Cookbook depicts the culinary journey of India. It defines the membership of the club, which comprises people from all the corners of India.”
— Anil Mukerji, CEO and managing member, Tollygunge Club
“A lot of hard work and thought have gone into putting this cookbook together. Kudos to the members of Tollygunge Club, who put their heart and soul into creating this treasure.”
— Captain Sanjiv Dhir, president, Tollygunge Club
Priced at Rs 1,250, The Tolly Cookbook is available for purchase at the club’s shop.
