For most Bengalis, just the word “mutton” instantly paints an image of kosha mangsho, slow-cooked and dark brown, with a thick, spiced gravy clinging to tender meat. But Bengal’s culinary heritage stretches well beyond kosha. Over generations, kitchens across the state have created distinctive mutton recipes, each tied to particular rituals, days of the week or even our colonial past. These dishes have their own personality and purpose.
Bhaja Moshla Mutton
One such dish is Bhaja Moshla Mutton, a preparation that relies heavily on freshly roasted and ground spices. Unlike kosha, where onions and slow frying dominate, here it is the dry aroma of roasted coriander, cumin and dry red chillies that gives character to the curry. Cooked to a medium-thick consistency, the gravy is deep red to brown and slightly smoky. Best had with plain rice, it is fiery yet fragrant, and a celebration of Bengal’s love for spices. You can try chef Subhojit Sen’s recipe.
Where to try: Koshe Kosha
Niramish Mangsho
The words ‘Niramish Mangsho’ instantly raise eyebrows. Literally meaning ‘vegetarian mutton’, it is a dish that avoids onion and garlic, often cooked on religious occasions like Kali Puja, when those ingredients are forbidden. Instead, ginger, asafoetida and curd become the backbone of the gravy. The result is lighter in colour, usually a soft yellow or orange, but rich in taste. The absence of onion and garlic makes the mutton stand out, its natural flavours rounded off by spices like cinnamon, cardamom and clove. To make it at home, you can try this recipe by Debjanir Rannaghor.
Where to try: Some restaurants like Dastaan serve niramish mangsho in their curated menus
Chui Jhal Mutton
Recently, Chui Jhal Mutton, though ages old, has captured the imagination of urban Bengal. Chui, a medicinal creeper root found in parts of south Bengal, especially in districts like Jessore, and Khulna across the border, adds a peppery note that lingers long after a bite. The dish is rustic and has gained popularity in restaurants and home kitchens in recent years. Cooked with minimal spices, letting the chui do the talking, the curry is brownish-red and intense. Try this recipe from Banglar Rannaghor.
Where to try: Amar Khama Lunch Room and Shapla Restaurant
Robibarer Mutton
Sunday in many Bengali homes is incomplete without Robibarer Mutton, or Sunday mutton. It is less a recipe and more a tradition, tied to family gatherings when the week’s chores pause for a leisurely lunch. This dish is usually richer, with generous use of potatoes that soak in the gravy, and a slow-cooking process that makes the mutton fall-off-the-bone tender. The colour is deep brown with oil surfacing on top, and the texture is thick enough to coat every grain of rice. Try this recipe by Spice Eats.
Where to try: Usha Bengali Restaurant
Mutton Dak Bungalow
Then there is Mutton Dak Bungalow, a dish with roots in the colonial era. Served in inspection bungalows to travelling British officials, it was designed to be hearty and filling. The curry combines mutton with boiled eggs and potatoes, and the gravy has a homely thickness rather than a polished restaurant finish. It carries a touch of mustard oil and whole spices, lending it a rustic flavour. Even today, mutton dak bungalow retains an old-world charm, tasting like something made in a smoky kitchen far from the city. Try this Dak Bungalow recipe by Natasha Gandhi at home.
Where to try: Kasturi, Bhojohori Manna, 6 Ballygunge Place
