Remember the scene from the 2015 Hindi film Piku where Bhaskor Banerjee (Amitabh Bachchan) relishes a plate of hot kochuris? Bhashkor’s preferred kochuri shop is Mohan Bhandar, a modest breakfast spot at the heart of Dharmatala, which was thrust into the spotlight after featuring in the Bollywood movie starring Amitabh Bachchan, Deepika Padukone and Irrfan Khan. As the shop turns 100, My Kolkata dropped in to learn about the legacy of the shop from the owners — and savour a plate of gorom kochuri, of course.
Allahabad to Kolkata
Fourth-generation owner Vikas Jaiswal’s great-grandfather opened the shop in 1925
Mohanlal Jaiswal came to Calcutta from Allahabad in 1925 and opened Mohan Bhandar, right opposite the Kolkata Municipal Corporation (KMC) building. At that time, the shop sold hot kochuris and a simple aloo torkari. “My great-grandfather came from Allahabad, the same city where Amitabh Bachchan is from. He started the shop to earn a livelihood,” said Vikas Jaiswal, Mohan’s great-grandson and the fourth-generation owner of the shop. The prime location of the shop meant it had a steady stream of customers. “Even before Piku, we had loyal customers from the locality who would come every morning to have their breakfast,” said Vikas.
Changing times, and an evolving menu
A plate of four kachoris is served with a mild potato curry, pickled chillies in mustard, and tamarind chutney
On the demand of customers, Mohan Bhandar’s menu expanded over the years. Today, the 20-seater eatery sells samosas, chaats, sweets, tea, and lassi, besides kochuri. One plate of kochuri, with four kochuris and potato curry costs only Rs 50. The game-changer on the plate of this favourite Kolkata breakfast is the addition of a tamarind chutney, and a chilli-mustard pickle. If you pair your kochuri with a bhnar of chaa, you’ll only need to pay Rs 10 more. Despite people now focusing towards healthy eating, the popularity of kochuris at this shop hasn’t receded. “For many, kachori is like fast food,” said Jaiswal. “It may be deep fried but people who want to eat it, will still order it. People from across the city come here to have kachoris. Even foreign tourists. They watch videos on YouTube and come here,” he added.
Mohan Bhandar regulars
A gentleman named Frank, sat at the single-seater table sorting through a bunch of papers. A server at the shop pointed to him saying, “Woh har roz aatein hai. Unse baat kijiye.” (He comes here every day. You can speak to him.) “I came to Kolkata from London before Covid,” Frank told My Kolkata, adding that he visits the KMC building a lot for work. “Every time I am here, I sit at this place and eat kachori. It is fresh and delicious.”
Regular customers at Mohan Bhandar are happy to stop by for a plate of kachori at any time of the day
A regular at Mohan Bhandar, Dindayal Jyotish Acharya brought along his family friends to try their kochuri, after offering prayers at Kalighat. “It is quite late for breakfast and too early for lunch. So we decided to come here. I am a regular at this shop, so it was a safe choice. Also, Amitabh Bachchan was here (pointing to the framed photo of Big B) so I brought them here,” he said.
Memories of the ‘Piku’ shoot
Amitabh Bachchan at Mohan Bhandar in 2014 during the ‘Piku’ shoot Amit Datta
“The shoot went on from 8am till 10pm. Bachchan did have the kochuri and liked it,” recalled a beaming Jaiswal who is a fan of the actor. When asked if he took a photo with him, he said meekly, “No, I spoke to him. He was at my shop, that is more than enough.” The sales of the shop shot up after Piku. and vloggers shooting videos further helped with the promotions. Mohan Bhandar is open all week from 8am - 10pm. Kochuris are fried throughout the day and one will always find a few tables occupied by customers, waiting for their plates of the dish.
The shop proudly adorns framed photos of Bachchan on its walls
Stills of Amitabh Bachchan from the Piku shoot hang on the three walls of the shop. A collage of newspaper cuttings also adorns the wall near the entrance.
While the Bollywood moment may have given Mohan Bhandar the spotlight, this little Dharmatala has been serving up a legacy with their perfectly puffed kochuris and special condiments for 100 years.
