Girls flaunt their designer tattoos. Picture by Uma Shankar Dubey

Jamshedpur, Oct. 12: Do not be surprised if elderly women draped in simple cotton sarees or young women in denims and T-shirt rehearsing for the dandiya suddenly metamorphose into stunners during Navratri.

In vibrant orange bandhni chaniya-cholis and heavy abhla work on the silk dupattas, it will become difficult to single out the petite teenagers from the attractive matrons.

Navratri is back and so are the designer chaniya cholis (ghaghra choli). With the Gujarati Sanatan Samaj hosting the dandiya and the Raas-Garba competitions this time, teams have been preparing for the big nights for the past month.

Apart from the rehearsals, planning for the costume and jewellery is taking up much time. From cotton to crepe, the chaniya cholis are available in a variety of colours and range, especially for those who want to go traditional during the festival.

?For the festive season, we use sparkling colours like orange, red, yellow, violet and black with a lot of silver zari (tikki) on different fabrics, especially cotton. Then there are add-ons,? explains Taru Gandhi, committee member, Gujarati Bhagini Samaj.

The mention of add-ons brings to mind mirror work or the ?abhla? but there is more to it than that meets the eye. ?Abhla or Kutch work is original Gujarati craft, but then beads, shells and pearls are also used on the patchwork. Some of the chaniyas have a lot of zari work on it. All of these are from Gujarat, where they are embroidered by rural women,? says Gandhi.

The cholis, the most interesting part of the costume, has evolved over the years. ?Especially in Jamshedpur, the choli has evolved from simple blouses to the backless ensemble. Although back there in Gujarat, backless with just two strings is traditional, here it is gradually catching up,? explained Gandhi.

Some of the cholis available at the Gujarati Sanatan Samaj are heavily sequinned with intricate glasswork.

While a few sport patchwork in contrasting colours, others are adorned by beautiful embroidery work.

Some of the cholis are simple, but despite the no-nonsense lines, they manage to look resplendent with bandhni, chital and patola motifs of Jamnagar.

Though most of the active and enthusiastic participants of the dandiya-raas-garba get their costumes from the samaj, there are others who get it tailored.

?Most of the Gujaratis, who can afford it, get their chaniya cholis from Gujarat, especially Chital, Porbander and Jetpur. There are a lot of bandhni work available in the city for those who want to get their outfits stitched here,? said Mona Kamani.

The Samaj rents out the costumes at a nominal rate on a monthly basis and every year attempt at something new. ?Though we try to keep up with the latest in fashion, the ethnic fibre stays. And it is just not the Gujaratis, who come during this festive season, there are others too, who keep coming especially, during this season when there are a host of events lined up in the city,? said Dolly Gohla, member of the Gujarati Bhagini Samaj.

Along with the costumes, comes jewellery, imitation of course, but in sync with the traditional baloya or bangles, karas or anklets and tika. ?Most of the ladies use their traditional jewellery, but those who have to participate in the competition use these jewellery made of dalda silver or aluminium,? explained Gandhi.

All said and done, preparation is at its peak and the city is waiting for a treat from October 14.