The Gucci store in Mumbai

Growing market. Increasing spending power. Well-travelled clientele…. Compliments showered on the Calcutta buyer every time a designer or a global brand representative passes through. But when it comes to cashing in on these qualities and gifting the city an international fashion label, they refuse to walk the talk.

Let’s face it: Calcutta is a price-paranoid market that’s not yet ready for the global brand explo sion.

So while big brands are rushing in for a bit bite of the luxury pie in India, it’s all happening on the high streets of Mumbai, Delhi, Bangalore, and even Hyderabad and Chennai. What about Calcutta? Guess, Next, Planet Sports, Accessorize, The Body Shop, Tommy Hilfiger, Reebok, Nike…. errrr.

In town for a trunk show recently, a Valentino spokesperson ruled out chances of the brand coming here in the foreseeable future. “Calcutta is a price-conscious market. We are not planning a store here,” she made it clear. At the exhibition held here in October, the brand managed to evoke “curiosity” and “awareness” more than sales. (Why does that not surprise us?!) Even at 20 to 50 per cent lower than global prices, the Valentino price point was deemed suitable for “other metros”. “If we ever come to Calcutta with another exhibition, we will bring smaller items like bags, shoes and accessories rather than clothes,” she added.

So how long must we wait? “If I were to introduce a high-end international brand in Calcutta, I would wait for another couple of years,” said Basab Paul, brand director of Ted Lapidus Paris, which was launched in Mumbai last November. “With Calcutta buyers travelling extensively, the price point they get in places like Dubai or Singapore works well for them. So, stores of high-end brands in Calcutta just don’t make much sense now,” he added.

But Ted Lapidus Paris being a middle-segment brand targeting the “new-generation office-goer”, the brand does plan to come to Calcutta by June. “Our price points are suitable for young people — call centre employees, bankers and similar profiles. I think our target market in Calcutta will work. The city does have a growing market that has emerged in the last two years,” felt Paul.

Naomi Campbell shows off Louis Vuitton’s latest collection

t2 takes a forlorn look at some of the fashion labels that have invaded the other metros but given Calcutta the royal ignore.

Louis Vuitton: The 153-year-old French brand that produces luxury leather goods, fashion accessories, pret-a-porter and jewellery is one of the first global labels to have entered India. It opened its first flagship store at the Oberoi in New Delhi in 2002 and the second one at the Taj Mahal Palace and Towers in Mumbai in 2004. The next stop for the brand is the UB City in Bangalore, where it plans to be present by 2008. Additional stores in Mumbai and Delhi are also on the cards. [LV’s association with India goes back some 150 years, when the brand used to produce special made-to-order cabinet trunks for the royal families of Baroda, Bikaner and Kashmir.]

Gucci: Founded in Florence in 1921, Gucci opened its first store in Mumbai on October 13, 2007. Housed inside Galleria at the Hilton Towers, Nariman Point, the store is spread over a sprawling 3,400 sq ft on one floor. It houses the latest Gucci collections for men and women’s lines of ready-to-wear, handbags, shoes, watches, sunglasses, jewellery, small leather goods, gift items and other accessories. The signature touch of the iconic brand extends to the chocolate brown turbans that have been custom-designed in Italy for the staff in the Mumbai store.

Fendi: The Italian fashion house set up in Rome in 1925 entered India in November 2006, with a 3,000 sq ft store at the Taj Mahal Palace and Towers in Mumbai. Part of the world’s largest luxury conglomerate Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy (LVMH) since 2004, the brand recently announced plans to set up six stores in India within a span of five years. The stores will initially roll out from five-star hotels, followed by luxury malls in all major cities. The stores in Delhi and Bangalore plan to open by the first quarter of 2008. The stores will showcase the entire Fendi range including handbags, apparels, footwear, eyewear and watches.

Chanel: The House of Chanel, launched by French fashion icon Gabriel Coco Chanel more than 100 years ago, came to India in 2005 with a store housed in the Imperial Hotel in New Delhi. Fragrances, jewellery, accessories and pret-a-porter find place on the racks. The first freestanding Chanel store in India is slated to come up in south Mumbai in 2009.

Jimmy Choo: The shoe Hollywood stars wear strode into Mumbai last November. Located at the Galleria in Nariman Point, the plush 100-square-metre store hosts the latest range of Jimmy Choo shoes and handbags. The boutique is Jimmy Choo’s 69th store in the world. The brand plans to go to Delhi soon.

Dior: The French fashion house arrived at the Oberoi Hotel in Delhi in early 2006. Cosmetics, shoes, leather bags, costume jewellery and dresses make up the brand’s bouquet. With Delhi-based socialite Kalyani Chawla as its India brand ambassador, Dior is scouting for property in Mumbai for a couple of stores — one in south Mumbai and the other in the suburbs. Another store in Delhi, at Emporio, is slated to open soon.

Versace: The Italian brand opened its first store in the country at the JW Marriott in Juhu, Mumbai, about a year-and-half ago. The store, however, will be closed down soon and another one at The Grand in Vasant Kunj, Delhi, is slated to open this March. The focus of the Delhi store will be on the Gianni Versace line. Other destinations in the near future include Mumbai again, Hyderabad and Chennai, where the label plans to be present with Gianni Versace and Versace Jeans Couture.

A Versace show-stopper

Hugo Boss: Over the past two years, the premium label has opened four stores in India — two in Mumbai, one in Delhi and one in Bangalore. The brand’s menswear collections Boss Black and Boss Orange have tasted success. Hugo Boss is now eyeing Hyderabad and Chennai.

Valentino: The 40-year-old Italian couture label came calling in August 2006 — a tie-up with Mafatlal Luxury. The brand’s flagship store in the country is at the Shangri-La in Delhi. A luxury address in Mumbai is on the cards.

FCUK: A new addition to India’s brandwagon, French Connection UK opened shop in Delhi in December, at the plush Select City Walk in Saket. The store is spread over 5,700 sq ft, with a 39-ft-long display window.

Bvlgari: The Italian jewellery brand, which diversified into perfumes, leather goods and accessories, set up shop in early 2004 at the Oberoi Hotel in Delhi. It offers the Bvlgari bouquet: jewellery and watches to perfumes and accessories like silk ties and scarves.

Burberry: The UK-based brand that celebrated its 150th birthday a few years ago, came to India in early 2006. The label’s India flagship store at the Taj Mahal Palace and Towers, Colaba, in Mumbai, houses bags, small leather goods and other fashion accessories.

Mango: The mid-level Spanish women’s wear label was one of the first international labels to enter India, in 2001, with a store in Mumbai. Since then, it has come up with other outlets in Mumbai, Delhi and Bangalore.

Moschino: The Italian fashion label opened a store at the Taj Mahal Palace and Towers in Mumbai, in October 2005. This was followed by a 140-square-metre outlet in Delhi last May.

(Which of these 14 brands do you want in Calcutta and why? Tell t2@abpmail.com)