Tell us about yourself....

I had started out as an assistant director in Slumdog Millionaire. Then in Peepli Live, I was not only involved in the casting, but was also the costume designer. I have also styled for advertisements. Then I did an international film, Echoes. I did a lot of stage productions. Then, Slumdog Millionaire happened. For Peepli Live, we tried a lot of costume designers. I had done my research on the film. So Anusha (Rizvi, the director) decided that I could be the costume designer! That film strengthened my confidence. I also worked as Anand Gandhi’s assistant director in Ship of Theseus.

How did Ram-Leela happen?

Sunil Shanbag did a Gujarati play, Maru Piyu Gaye Rangoon, and its costumes were highly appreciated. Somebody from Ram-Leela’s unit saw it and I got the offer. Sabyasachi (Mukherjee) was at that time doing the costumes, but somehow it didn’t work out. I came on board to do the costumes for the rest of the cast, not the lead pair. But I did some research on my own and I guess that made an impression on (Sanjay Leela) Bhansali sir and he asked me to also design for Ranveer.

What was Bhansali’s brief?

Mr Bhansali is a person who gives you incredible creative liberty. He didn’t want Ranveer to look tacky and cheap. Tribals in Gujarat and Rajasthan wear colourful outfits. We wanted to blend that with what can be trendy. He had a very clear brief that it had to be rich and colourful. Colours are very important for him. He puts a lot of stress on detailing. He is perhaps the only director who would change his shot to highlight the garment.

What research went into designing Ranveer’s clothes?

There are two broad communities in Gujarat — Ravari is the tribe that travels and Ranveer’s Ram belongs to that tribe. Jadeja, from which Deepika’s Leela hails, is the richer community. I spent time in Bhuj to understand the clothing tradition. All the fabrics were directly brought from the local markets because those are not available anywhere else. They are stitched, used and consumed within the community. Mr Bhansali also picked up old fabrics.

Ram-Leela seems to have a touch of Hum Dil De Chuke Sanam in the look and feel...

Any director’s new work will remind you of his older films. But there was no conscious effort. Hum Dil…was a quiet, non-violent film but Ram-Leela has a lot of masala and colour. This is much more vivacious. I had no past reference for it. Bhansali hasn’t used any of his past designers. It is his fresh attempt to create something new.

The opulent costumes and jewellery must have upped the budget…

I am not allowed to divulge the budget, but yes, a lot of money has gone into it. I had no personal life over the last two years. I couldn’t leave anything to chance. Maintaining the garments for the film’s continuity was a huge task. We had our tailoring unit on the set.

What next for Maxima Basu?

I will launch my line, Weavelength, soon. I have been in talks for some films. I want to experiment. Maybe I will direct a film when I turn 40.