Japanese designer Takada Kenzo is so fascinated by the Indian summer that he has showcased bright Rajasthani colours in his Spring-Summer 2006 line. On the international ramps, the retro and vintage looks have been swept away for good, while whatever feels fresh and airy holds sway. So what’s the story this summer nearer home? It’s time to shed those bulky layers and take your pick from a range of interesting summer dresses, wrap tops, skirts and trousers. According to designer Anamika Khanna, it’s time to bring back the classic touch in dressing and do away with the casual mix-and-match style, while Sabyasachi’s woman has a ‘grown-up’ sophisticated look about her.

The emphasis is on elegant femininity and flattering silhouettes in fine silks, linen, voile, jute cottons and chiffons. “Keep the fit loose and comfortable, as opposed to the tailored look of 2005. Go for a look that is versatile. Above all, confidence will be the key word,” says Raghavendra Rathore, who also predicts a strong story in colours and a throwback to the Art Deco influence in fashion. Whites will rule the roost but the colour palette will be refreshing with shades of aqua, lemon-yellow, lavender, lilac, olive and nudes such as ecru, beige and coffee-mocha blended with pretty pinks and peaches. Basically let the black numbers fly out of your wardrobe.

SUMMER DRESSES
Stay cool this summer

• Designers want to keep the look for the season simple. Hence the renaissance of the summer dress, which is all set to make a big splash this year. Keep it plain and wear it to office or don a short cape-like jacket ? or the bolero ? for special occasions. “The dress is emerging to be ‘the’ strongest garment. You will see it in the retro style with plenty of glamour thrown in. Yet the look will be understated. The metallic look in dresses will be haute, so no need for extra bling,” says Ravi Bajaj. The metallic look is reflected in Siddharth Tytler’s boob tube dresses as well.

Besides the fact that dresses are very convenient to wear, one doesn’t really have to worry about matching two pieces of clothing. Take a look at the shift dresses with colourful embroidery and button-front dresses that are the focus of the season at David Abraham & Rakesh Thakore’s store. Kiran Uttam Ghosh prefers to team up her dresses with broad obe belts, boleros and narrow pants. “I like my dresses to be romantic with lace and frills showing on them,” she says.

Knee-length dresses, which are cinched in at the waist and flare as they flow down, seem to be a favourite with designers Narendra Kumar and Aparna Chandra. While Kumar’s dresses are mostly in embroidered linen, Chandra has used chiffon, cotton and voile for hers. Wispy chiffon and net dresses with printed lining showing through are what Shantanu Goenka is going to showcase in his summer line. “I’ve put together elements from different places. The shredded look is embellished with printed patchwork, old coin sequins and jewellery. In lavenders and vintage colours, these dresses give you a definitely Victorian feel,” he says.

SKIRTS
Slim is in

• The fashion-conscious just love their skirts. “Today skirts compete with jeans, trousers and cropped pants for attention,” says Kumar. For Tytler, the look is slim. He is putting a bet on pencil skirts with gold, silver and copper foil prints that add a quotient of glamour without making them look heavy.

The gypsy skirts, those bohemian garments which took the world of fashion by storm last summer, too have slimmed down in volume. Kumar says that the slim version of the tiered skirts will still be in favour, while Tytler predicts that they will last for the next four seasons. The latter has the look in his trumpet skirt that is tiered with silk frills and embellished with crystal chains. His other favourites are crinkled skirts in mint and purple hues. So if you’ve loved Boho, don’t despair, with just a little less you can be de rigueur.

The other movement in skirts promises to be easy and cool with some leg showing ? the look is casual with hemlines hovering around and just below the knees. Kumar too has kept the skirts at knee-length, trimmed with lots of lace and teasing feminine flounces. Monisha Bajaj is offering low-waisted pleated skirts that reflect an influence of the ‘20s. “No mini skirts this time. My skirts will be tapered from the hips and then flow out as they reach midway down the legs. The hemline will be asymmetrical,” says Bajaj.

Meanwhile, Varun Bahl’s skirts in chiffon and voile are embroidered and edged with frills. The same trend is reflected in Abraham and Thakore’s line of skirts. Their unusual offering this time is the Zouave skirt (a bifurcated garment). What exactly is the Zouave skirt? Zouave was the name given to certain infantry regiments in the French army and their dress has inspired this military look.

Also keeping volume in check is the wrap skirt. Yes, the very same skirts that you see Sania Mirza sporting on the tennis court. “Wrap skirts are very sexy and stylish as they wrap the body and accentuate the best features,” says Abraham. You can wear them any time of the day. Meanwhile, prints on skirts are forecasted to be mostly geometric and abstract as against floral prints that were in last season.