When it comes to classic Indian dressing, the go-to name for many is Raghavendra Rathore. The suave fashion designer from the royal family of Jodhpur — whose clientele is made up of cricketers, Bollywood stars and businessmen — takes t2oS through the RR sensibility.
Virat Kohli’s look for his Mumbai reception
The look was discussed and planned with Virat Kohli over a bespoke session. Many versions of the same look were created by our craftsmen in Jodhpur and eventually the deep navy-blue silk handmade Jodhpuri bandhgala jacket paired with the classic Jodhpuri breeches with custom-made shoes was finalised upon. Kohli’s understanding of his comfort level was incorporated and other details such as handmade buttons, a custom-printed pocket scarf, and skillfully crafted shoes, completed the look as per his requirement.
The Raghavendra Rathore groom
The typical Raghavendra Rathore groom is a conscious, intuitive, well-travelled, modern individual at heart. His understanding of his self-esteem and how the world sees him is absolutely clear, his faith in the brand is complete. Cut and fit are the other two guiding pillars, on which the entire look rests and most importantly it radiates the confidence with elan and a sense of regalia.
The Raghavendra Rathore classic bandhgala look
My love affair with the bandhgala takes me back to my boarding school where every student had to make their own bandhgala. I took great pride in meticulously planning my look with my local tailor, with the aim to have the slickest bandhgala on campus. Reviving old-world custom tailoring techniques that tend to overshadow the mass method of stitching suits certainly gives the RR look its uniqueness.
We have given the classic bandhgala our own signature styling too. Like, earlier people used to wear the bandhgala with all buttons closed. In 1994 we introduced to the world a new look for the bandhgala by requesting our clients to wear the first two to three buttons open, with a stylised shirt. This instantly became unanimous with our look and has ever since been adapted by most people who wear bandhgalas in India today.
The experimental groom
No doubt we are a classic brand but we are extremely open to any degree of experimenting as per the client’s needs. We encourage our clients to get involved at the concept stage. To my mind, someone like Keshav Reddy (GVK group scion) was not only brilliant in understanding what designs work for him but he was also one of the few people who dared the fashion world with his requirement of the printed bandhgala jacket for a function during his wedding. It’s by far one of the most striking requests that we have fulfilled.
Dressing Saif Ali Khan and his son Taimur in RR
With a father who has an impeccable sense of style, Taimur can’t be left behind… the team really takes pride in dressing up the Khans. The beauty of interactions with Saif Ali Khan is his ability to understand clothes… they are simple and super stylish. I remember for his afternoon wedding function he chose to wear a super thin light blue handspun khadi kurta, just before he came to meet the Press… few people would be able to carry off a simple outfit the way he does. His style is inherent and not learnt.
Luxury to me means….
To have a state of satisfaction, privacy and happiness.
Dressing classic to me means...
To be comfortable in one’s own style.
When I think classic dressers, I think of...
People who are inherently dressed in their own style.
My colours...
Dark shades.
My personal style...
Simple but elegant.
My brand...
Ralph Lauren.
The city I am most comfortable in...
New York and Jodhpur.
My holiday destination...
Narlai in Rajasthan.
My music...
Andrea Bocelli.
My film...
The classic, Blade Runner.
RATHORE DECODES DIFFERENT KINDS OF INDIAN JACKETS FOR MEN
The Bandhgala: Often referred to as the prince coat, a bandhgala has now become a must-have in every man’s wardrobe. It can be worn to any occasion, which makes it a wardrobe intrinsic. Whether it’s a wedding soiree or a formal dinner, a sense of sophistication is guaranteed. The ultimate benefit of owning a bandhgala is that it can flatter any body type and promises a royal look. To achieve the original look of a bandhgala, one needs to be extremely particular about getting the right cut and fit. It should always be like second skin. The length is ideally dictated by the body type. But as a general rule to follow, the length should end just at the root of the thumb while the arms rest against the body.
The Achkan: This knee-length coat is more trimmed and fitted to give a compact masculine look. It is more commonly worn by grooms during wedding ceremonies or other formal festive occasions as the sherwani restricts its wearer, who needs to be tall for the flare and the length to fall in the right proportion.
The Sherwani: The main difference between sherwani and achkan lies in their length, fabric and the massive flare from the waist. The sherwani is little longer than the achkan and is more flared from the waist till the bottom.
Pictures courtesy @raghavendra.rathore
Smita Roy Chowdhury
