The old Shiva temple at Jagatballavpur and (below) scenes of war intricately carved out on terracota tiles on the walls of the temple. Pictures by Gopal Senapati

The smooth asphalt road that runs from Bargachhia through Jagatballavpur to Amta and Hooghly district, runs through a heritage site that is many centuries old. The palatial Pal family residence that covered 10 bighas was cut into half by this road in the 1960s. While passing by, one is likely to notice the dilapidated terracotta temple on the left. A curious traveller is bound to stop by and take a look. For locals, this is an old Shiva temple that has withstood the test of time for many generations. But for those who know, this temple could just be the tip of another history hidden in the villages of Bengal.

A closer look reveals stories of war engraved in the red tiles on the front walls of the temple. Some of them are ruined and the figures can hardly be distinguished. The structure lies in neglect, and a banyan tree has made its home on top of it. A kasthi pathar (touchstone) Shivalinga stands inside the dark sanctum sanctorum. Right opposite the temple is the remnant of a palace entrance, also covered in heavy foliage. A pillar with a lion sitting on top stands out on one side of the gate. The temple was built in 1170 of the Bengali calendar, by Bishnu Ram Pal, in the courtyard of the family mansion.

“The temple was built adjoining the residential mansion so that both the family members as well as common people could visit. Where the temple now stands was at one time the outer courtyard of the palace. The inner part or andarmahal is now non-existent and it was demolished to construct the road,” said Dr Amit Pal, ophthalmologist and the seventeenth descendant of Buddhimanta Pal, the youngest son of Binod Behari Pal.

“Binod Behari Pal was a cashier of the Maharaja of Burdwan. He had received 102 bighas from the zamindar in this area and settled on the bank of the Kana Damodar that flowed through this part at that time. The river has long since moved away but the settlement has remained here. Binod Behari had established the zamindari here and it was named Jot Binod,” said Pal.

The erstwhile palace is now a ruin, with parts of the boundary wall in tact running along with the old chandimandap. Inside this boundary is another ancient Singhabahini temple that dates back to nearly 800 years. As the family lore goes, Binod Behari Pal was taking a dip in the river one morning when the touchstone idol of Singhabahini floated near him. Binod Behari took the idol back home where it was worshipped regularly. Later, a temple was established for the deity inside the mansion by Buddhimanta Pal. “It is believed that the Pal family’s prosperity increased after the Singhabahini deity had come to the house. In fact, Durga puja had started in this house after Singhabahini’s worship and it has never stopped since then,” said Pal.

The entrance to the ruined Pal mansion. A lion still sits on top of the pillar

None of the Pal family members live in Jagatballavpur any more. They only visit during Durga puja. The regular puja of Singhabahini and at the Shiva temple are done by a priest who lives in the village. “Most of the land and property at Jagatballavpur has been encroached on by settlers from outside. The entire family started shifting to Howrah and Calcutta some 60 years back when the economic condition of the family started deteriorating after abolition of the feudal system. Now we only visit once a year during Durga puja. The rest of the expenses for the temples are run by the trust which comprises members of the family. We have to contribute huge amounts to keep the puja going,” said Pal. Although they value their family tradition, there is little they can do to save it. “We have often thought about restoring the Shiva temple, but it’s a tough job. Many villagers have offered to repair it with cement and other materials but we have stopped them. Applying cement will ruin the structure. Only experts from the archaeological department will know how to restore it. We had once appealed to the department but received no response,” said Pal.