Taki is a cosy and quiet retreat, just a two-hour drive from the city. It is situated 73km northeast of Calcutta, in North 24-Parganas, bordering Bangladesh. It is also the gateway to the Sunderbans.

After crossing Science City, we drove down Basanti Road and soon crossed the Bantala Leather Complex. The landscape started changing from urban to semi-urban and finally to rural. Villages with paddy fields and fish ponds appeared on either side of the road, replacing buildings.

Till Hasnabad, the road was busy with vehicles carrying fish and other products from the hinterland of Bhangor, Bhojerhat, Ghatakpukur, Basanti and Malancha to the morning market in Calcutta. We crossed New Thuba Rail Gate, then Thuba More and finally reached Taki.

The quiet Ichhamati is the main attraction of this place. An imaginary line through the middle of the river separates West Bengal and Bangladesh.

The local people look forward to the annual reunion on Dashami. On that day, people from both sides of the border hoist their national flags on boats carrying idols and meet across the Ichhamati. The man-made boundary vanishes for the day.

Our first port of call was Machhranga Deep near the confluence of the Ichhamati and Vasa. The island, spread over 129 acres, is mostly uninhabited. It took us around 30 minutes to reach the island by a mechanised boat. On our way we spotted the ruins of Zamindar Roychoudhury’s palatial house, being swallowed by the river now. The island is ideal for a picnic and the Hasnabad Panchayat Samity maintains a number of picnic spots and a two-storeyed bungalow on the island.

We tiptoed across the slippery ground, avoiding little pools formed in low-lying spots on the island. We spent a lovely day watching the fish in the pools and the kingfishers above. As evening set in, the boatman called us to return to shore. The BSF strictly monitors the movement of boats and people after dusk on the river, he said.

The paved riverfront near Jetty Ghat wears a festive look in the evenings with roadside eateries and shops selling toys and trinkets. Taki municipality, established on April 1 1869, maintains these facilities.

The Ramakrishna Mission temple and “Kuler Kali Bari” are within walking distance from the riverfront. One can witness the evening prayer and arati there. The name “Kuler Kali Bari” suggests the existence of another river flowing near the temple.

The strip of land between the two rivers, locally called tack, might have given rise to the name Taki.

The hotels in Taki serve reasonably good food, particularly fish dishes. Those with a sweet tooth must try the local speciality — malpoa.

In the afternoon we settled on the bank of the Ichhamati on a quiet spot near a casuarina grove close to the burning ghat. Dusk descended slowly. Fishermen tied their boats near the shore and retired for the night. The full moon, the boats bobbing in the high tide, the murmuring sound of the waves and someone singing a bhatiali song in the distance made it a magical evening.

The next day we went to the riverside to see the sunrise. The Ichhamati was calm and serene. The glowing sun rose above the trees of the Bangladesh horizon, spreading a golden hue all around. The swaying casuarinas seemed to nod in tune with our appreciation of the heavenly scene.

Next we hired a van rickshaw and headed for Jalalpur. The old deity of Nandalal Jiu is an attraction here. We walked further into a portion of land on the river, locally known as golpataban, for a grand view of Bangladesh.

The river here is a narrow ribbon and we could clearly see the people in the Sreepur village of Bangladesh.

While returning, we visited the ancestral house of the former chief of the Indian army, General Shankar Roychoudhury, in Saidpur village. Our boatman recounted how the Indian army had destroyed Pakistani gunboats on the Ichhamati during the 1971 war. Freeing the riverine route, our soldiers ferried tanks and ammunition and captured Satkhira in East Pakistan territory.

Going

Taki can be reached both by road and rail. Take a bus from Esplanade or a train from Sealdah. The Hasnabad local goes via Taki Road station.

From Taki Road station, Jetty Ghat takes 15 minutes by van- rickshaw. River cruise boats can be hired at Jetty Ghat.

Entry fee for Machhranga Deep is Rs 5 per head. Ferry service is available from Jetty Ghat.

To book a picnic spot, contact Hasnabad Panchayat Samity, PO Hasnabad, District 24-Parganas (N)

Staying

Nripendra Atithisala run by the Taki municipality is a good option. Address: Taki Uttar Bari, PO Taki, 24-Parganas(N), Pin:743429.

Contact P.K. Choudhury, Netajinagar, 9331026585 or Swati Biswas, Kalindi, 9339375915.

Other options are Suhasini Guest House, Taki Tourist Bungalow, Public Health Guest House, Mitra Rest House and Shuvadip. Permission from BSF and the BDO is required for staying the night at the Machhranga Deep Guest House