The thinness of the air is felt only when the eyes come to rest on the signboard at the bus terminus. Rimbik: 2,280 metres.

A little less oxygen never really hurt anyone, but the emerald green forests that stretch out as far as the eye can see above the quaint cluster of tin-roofed log houses provide much-needed reassurance. The oxygen-makers are hard at work.

Rimbik, some four hours by bus or jeep from Darjeeling and seven hours from New Jalpaiguri station (an overnight journey by train from the city), is a treat for solitude seekers. Stop over in Maney Bhangjang on your way to Rimbik to try the local momos, which taste best here when washed down with a cup of tea.

Not too many apart from trekkers visit this place and the hikers, saturated with the scenes they have soaked in on the way, use it only as a stopover. But don?t go by how the place is used; Rimbik lends itself to exploration and you don?t have to be a David Livingstone to realise that. Everybody who has visited Rimbik has been tempted to walk the mule trail leading to the wilds beyond, and most have answered the call.

Bird-watchers can follow the bird songs that drift from the woods all day. Those who prefer subjects that don?t run away when approached can stick to scouting the fringes of the forest for orchids and wildflowers that grow in profusion. If these options do not sound appealing enough, there are other ways of staying busy ? Rimbik is famous for its oranges. In fact, that is what its name signifies.

SURVIVAL KIT

• Light woollens • Windcheater • Sun glasses • Sunscreen • A smile

There are orange orchards in profusion, and the owners usually allow visitors to stroll through their plots to feast on the juicy citrus delights. There are hotels to cater to all kinds of tourists. High-end hotels, shacks, a forest bungalow and youth hostel are available in Rimbik.

Though the panorama of peaks that have helped give Darjeeling the honour of being called the Queen of Hills is not visible from Rimbik, the pleasant mornings and cold evenings are a constant reminder of the mighty eight-thousanders lying beyond the towering hillocks that hem Rimbik in.

The mercury dips after sundown, but the hospitality and heavy woollens are enough to prompt even the most lethargic to take a walk through the hamlet in the evening or spend the better part of the night outside the comfort of the hotel, trying to identify stars and constellations.

Although you can visit Rimbik whenever you feel like, the best time is October, when clear skies have forced the rains to retreat. A good way to have that fleeting feel of bliss linger is to leave the village before the infectious slow rhythm of life enters your system.

How to get there

Teesta-Torsa Express, Uttar Banga Express,

Darjeeling Mail to New Jalpaiguri station. Book a jeep to Rimbik

Where to stay

There are plenty of hotels to choose from. It?s no use booking one from the city. For those keen on getting an insight into the lives of people there, villagers gladly open their doors to visitors, for a nominal price