A stream gurgles through the forest, its water churning between rocks; leaves that have fallen off trees twirl in the wind on the forest floor; birds dart from tree to tree, sometimes breaking into song; tribal children cavort in a clearing in the forest… Scenes from a typical day in Koraput, a beautiful part of western Orissa.

The district is rich in natural resources and home to a vast tribal population. Hills, forests and waterfalls lay out a treat for the tourist here, though many of the attractions remain unexplored because of lack of amenities.

The headquarters of the district, also known as Koraput, is at a height of about 3,000 ft and lies next to Dandakaranya. There are several places you can visit around the town.

Jeypore is a 40-minute journey from Koraput. It is a halt on the way to various places in Andhra Pradesh, Chhattisgarh and other parts of Orissa. Ruins of palaces are the primary attraction here.

There are two major waterfalls near Jeypore — Chitrakoot and Tirathgarh. Further away lie Malkangiri and Gupteswar.

Chitrakoot, in Jagdalpur, is known as the Niagra of India. A rainbow hangs over it perpetually.

Tirathgarh, more than 35 km away in the opposite direction, presents nature in its more primitive form. The water cascades down from over 1,000 ft. Howling gusts of wind, the sound of water and chirping of birds accentuate the silence here.

Gupteswar is a pilgrimage spot. During Maghi Purnima, lakhs of pilgrims from Orissa and neighbouring states assemble here to worship a shivling in a dark cave atop a limestone hill. Locals refer to Gupteswar as Orissa’s Amarnath.

The journey takes about three hours by car. The strain is relieved by the view on both sides of the road. There are numerous caves on the way. It’s quite dangerous to enter the dark caves alone. In some of them, sadhus can be seen meditating. There’s a rest house run by the state government here.

Devmali is another tourist attraction, about 50 km from Koraput. At 4,000 ft, it is the highest point on the Eastern Ghat. Roads spiral up the hill with sharp twists and turns. Some of the roads are steeply sloped and are reminiscent of Darjeeling. Devmali is the land of strong winds, frequent rain and fast-flowing rivers.

The panchayat is making an attempt to turn the area into a tourist spot, but basic amenities like hotels are still lacking. The motorable road is too narrow.

A railway link was established in the late-1980s between Koraput and Rayagada, another major tourist attraction in the region. There are more than 30 tunnels and 50 bridges along the stunningly beautiful route.

Going

The only direct train is Howrah-Koraput Express. Alternatively, take a train bound for south India (Chennai Mail, East Coast Express and Falaknama Express are some of the options). Get off at Vizianagaram and catch another train to Koraput or Rayagada. There are trains to Koraput from Bhubaneswar as well.

Staying

There are plenty of hotels in Rayagada and Jagdalpur. There’s a state government rest house in Gupteswar. There are no hotels and rest houses at Devmali