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Sunday Classics: Golbari ‘kosha mangsho’ at Shyambazar

A quarter plate of old-school, fall-off-the-bone mutton curry

Kolkata’s old-world charm is undoubtedly one of the things that makes the city so special. Wrapped up in this very nostalgia, and still living up to it’s fame, is Golbari at the five-point crossing of Shyambazar. This small cabin-style eatery in North Kolkata serves dishes such as mutton keema and liver along with egg devil and cutlets, but it is their kosha mangsho that is the reigning champion. So much so that Golbari mangsho has become a thing of its own. Served in a small white quarter plate, the succulent mutton curry is almost black and haloed with the spice-infused oil from the curry. The meat is cooked in spices for hours to ensure that it is soft and falls off the bone, giving the curry its burnt-caramel colour and the top-layer of oil which separates as the spices are cooked. Enjoy this dish with a side of soft paratha and fresh onions which help cut through the richness of the meat.

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