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Of fowl cutlets and modern cafes in Kolkata

'Travelling down the historic alleys of north Kolkata in search of popular snacks of the past can be nostalgic,' says Gautam Mukhopadhyay

Gautam Mukhopadhyay | Published 10.10.22, 09:51 AM

Cafe culture has become a lifestyle in Kolkata during the last decade, influencing the food habits, especially over the weekend. The change in food habit and attitude seem to have been accelerated by the pandemic.

Around two decades back, roadside tea stalls were the most common destination for adda. Today, with the explosion of cafes and malls, there are many options all over the city.

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The relaxed atmosphere and informal attire do have a positive impact on self-worth and attitude. Hanging out with friends in cafes is a normal outing today. A few cups of coffee can be consumed daily without any significant health hazard.

Fowl cutlets or kabirajis have given way to cheesebased pasta or chicken schnitzel in designer cafes. Biriyani is certainly among the few food items still preferred, though the cost has increased substantially.

Travelling down the historic alleys of north Calcutta in search of popular snacks of the past can be nostalgic. However, the gradual transition over the last decade is easily palpable.

Friendship

Food-and-friendship was the essence of many eateries of the past. Though commercial intention was there, friendship was also an important issue. As the story goes, the famous outlet Mitra Cafe was not named after the owners’ surname but on mitrata, meaning friendship. Friends spent hours in these places enjoying tea, coffee and snacks, and discussing various social and political issues.

There were many popular outlets like Dilkusha Cabin or Putiram. Having juice at Paramount was usual. However, it was the Coffee House in College Street which was the most popular of all.

It started in April 1876 as Albert Hall, later to be named Coffee House. Common people, along with those known in the spheres of art, culture and politics, spend a lot of time there. The famous song based on Coffee House, sung by the iconic Manna Dey, was recorded in Bombay in 1983.

It was written by Gouri Prasanna Majumdar and the music was composed by Suparna Ghosh.

In Park Street, Flury’s was a popular food outlet. It was founded by the Swiss couple Joseph and Freida in 1927. It presented the old-world charm of a European tea room of the British era with a colonial vibe. English breakfast along with cakes, pastries and juices was very popular.

However, it has to be admitted that the eateries today in Kolkaata are ahead in numbers, ambience and brand value.

Cafe

Cafe is a small eating or drinking establishment with a limited menu. The main attraction is on food, whereas in coffee houses the main focus is on coffee. The French term cafe means coffee house and the Turkish term kahve means coffee. Kiva Han was apparently the first coffee shop in 1475, located presently in Istanbul, Turkey.

The huge explosion of cafes and coffee houses in the last decade in Kolkata has brought about a major change in weekend eating habits. Sandwiches, pizzas or pastas from branded outlets are in great demand. Cheese-based items and food rich in fat are common choices.

Cafes do offer additional services like Wi-Fi and books like literary cafes. Some welcome pets or Instagram posts. The decor or music in many cafes is really unique. It is often said that a lot can happen over coffee or food.

The famous brand Starbucks started in Seattle, US, in 1971 and has around 34,000 outlets worldwide. Kolkata has welcomed such brands wholeheartedly.

Although many malls have made a mark in Kolkata, South City Mall, which opened on January 16, 2008, has brought about a phenomenal change. On weekends or during festivals, the daily footfall may go up to 2 lakh. There are around 134 shops and eateries in the mall.

Although shopping and eating outlets still exist in Gariahat or College Street, many today prefer cafes and malls.

Obese and overweight

Significant weight gain or loss in a short time may be detrimental. Being overweight and obese are different entities, though they are confused regularly.

If the BMI — Body Mass Index, which is a simple index of weight for height — is 30 or more, a person is obese. If itis between 25 and below 30, a person is overweight. Obese individuals are more prone to develop major illnesses.

In the past few decades, obesity has increased almost threefold, thereby becoming one of the most important lifestyle factors for major diseases.

It is best to reduce the consumption of fatty food because that may lead to obesity. Cardiac problems, stroke, diabetes and osteoarthritis are related to obesity.

Persons who are obese are more vulnerable to various cancers like breast, uterine or ovary in females and prostate, colorectal or gall bladder inmales.

An iconic gastroenterologist of the city expressed concern that around one-fourth of the population has fatty liver, which can develop into chronic liver disease in the future. Maintaining a proper weight is important to remain healthy. It may be wiseto increase fruit intake and do physical exercises daily for at least half an hour.

The advent of cafe culture in the city has brought new enthusiasm among all, especially the youth. The change in food habits, especially the consumption of fast food, needs to be recognised. The choice of having a fowl cutlet or tortilla is entirely personal.

Please enjoy the food of your choice but also keep track of your weight and wallet.

Gautam Mukhopadhyay is the secretary of the Bengal Oncology Foundation and clinical director of the department of surgical oncology, Peerless Hospital.

Last updated on 10.10.22, 09:53 AM
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