North Kolkata’s narrow gullies can instantly transform you to sepia-toned days when the now desolate mansions were resplendent and stalwarts of history walked the streets. Hidden away in these lanes are also many old eateries that shaped Kolkata’s checkerboard culinary scene.
Among the many such heritage eateries is one breakfast joint, which has been in business for the past 105 years. The menu is as simple as it gets, and there is always some chaa — with and without milk and sugar — available to wash it all down. In its century of existence the National Economic Restaurant, tucked away in Shyambazar, has refused to change, yet has held on to its patrons.
The scent of nostalgia
The walls of the nondescript rectangular room bear the marks of time, which now seem to resemble abstract paintings. An old-school toaster crisps up pound ruti — the iconic Kolkata quarter-pound bread. The plain wooden tables will remind you of school, and the aroma of mustard oil and milk tea is nostalgic.
The 'pound ruti' toast in the making
A stone’s-throw away from the busy Five Point Crossing, the blink-and-you’ll-miss-it eatery was established in 1920 by Lalbihari Basak, and today is run by his great grandsons, Subhasish Basak and Rajiv Basak. They still have a loyal customer base, who visit regularly to sample their minimal menu — pound ruti toast, with or without butter, along with eggs, poached or omelette, and tea.
“We never changed the decor of the restaurant because we wanted to hold on to the heritage. It is our heirloom. In a time when things are changing fast, it is important to note that heritage is also making a comeback. After all, history is the foundation stone of a society,” reflected Rajiv, in a chat with My Kolkata. “Time stops here, and that is exactly what we are trying to preserve,” he added.
The Basaks, residents of Jorabagan in Burrabazar area, have lived in Kolkata since the early 1900s.
A heritage Bengali business
Subhasish and Rajiv, now in their mid-50s, joined the restaurant about 25 years ago to assist their father. They had grown up listening to stories of Lalbihari, a Bengali businessman who entered the culinary world without any prior experience. Their grandfather, Jahar Basak, picked the baton from his father and even altered the menu, serving things like Mughlai paratha and fritters. The restaurant that originally started as a breakfast joint changed into a bhaater hotel during Jahar and his son Madhusudan’s times, but went back to what sells the most — toast, eggs, and tea.
'Pound ruti' toast and poached eggs — one of the dishes on the menu featuring bread, eggs and tea
Now four generations later, they are still going steady and seem to have broken the stigma of “Bangali byabsha korte parena” (Bengalis cannot run business successfully).
Brush with the celebrities old and new
The National Economic Restaurant was once a regular chaa-spot for several noted names of the theatre and film industry. In the heyday of the theatres in neighbouring Hatibagan, actors and actresses would stop by for a bite here. Eminent theatre personality Satyabrata Kabiraj was a regular during the 1970s, as were Anup Kumar and Manoj Mitra.
Rituparno Ghosh shot a few scenes of Abohoman in this heritage eatery, and it had a rendezvous with Bollywood too with Kahaani 2: Durga Rani Singh.
National Economic Restaurant has been a constant in Kolkata’s food space since the 1920s
Social media discovery
National Economic Restaurant is not just popular among Shaymbazar locals. People from various parts of Kolkata looking for simple fares of nostalgia stop by the eatery even today. In recent times, this has included social-media savvy youngsters. The eatery’s ‘Insta-worthy’ old-world charm, and pocket-friendly prices have turned it into a great place to hang out, especially when air conditioning isn’t a prerequisite.
Whether Subhasish and Rajiv’s next generation will join the family-run business, and whether they will hold on to the heritage or introduce newer things to cater to diverse demands of present times is something only time will tell. But until then, there’s no saying goodbye to the National Economic Restaurant.
Address: 220, Acharya Prafulla Chandra Rd, Shyambazar, Fariapukur, Kolkata
Timings: 6.30am - 10pm
