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Italian luxury menswear brand Canali clocks 90 years, highlighting the essence and celebrations

t2 caught up with Stefano Canali, president and CEO, Canali Group, in a freewheeling chat on Canali turning 90 and more

Saionee Chakraborty Published 30.11.24, 05:29 AM
Canali's 90th Anniversary Capsule Collection

Canali's 90th Anniversary Capsule Collection Pictures courtesy: Canali

Heritage brand Canali turns 90 this year. A mega occasion that calls for celebrations. And, the iconic Italian menswear brand's India party took place in Mumbai's IFBE recently, after travelling to Milan, New York, and Beijing. They brought along their limited-edition Anniversary Capsule Collection that's both timeless and modern.

Canali has been present in India since 2009 and has seven stores across the country, its latest one being at the Jio World Plaza in Mumbai. The brand has 190 boutiques and is present in over 1,000 retail stores in more than 100 countries.

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t2 caught up with Stefano Canali, president and CEO, Canali Group, in a freewheeling chat on Canali turning 90 and more.

Arjun Kapoor and Ali Fazal, Sidhant Gupta and Stefano Canali

Arjun Kapoor and Ali Fazal, Sidhant Gupta and Stefano Canali

Ninety years is a stupendous achievement! Congratulations! Do you remember your first day at Canali?

Celebrating 90 years truly feels monumental. I vividly remember my first day officially at Canali. I joined the finance department after my work stay in NY, though in truth, I've been part of this world since my earliest days. Canali was never just a company; it was an extension of our family. Growing up, visiting my father at work, I was immersed in the world of tailoring and craftsmanship that defines Canali. Those visits, filled with the sounds of sewing machines and the sight of fabrics, shaped my understanding of our family business and its dedication to quality and heritage. It's more than just a memory; it’s a foundational part of who I am, what I do and what Canali stands for today.

What had you expected Canali to be and after so many years, what has the experience been like?

When I took on the responsibility of leading Canali, I had a profound understanding of what the company represented because it has been part of my family for generations. I expected Canali to continue being a symbol of Italian elegance and craftsmanship, and our goal, as a family, was to honour its legacy while ensuring its future relevance. Over the years, the experience has been immensely rewarding but also challenging. Running a family business with such a rich history comes with a sense of duty to the artisans, employees, and customers who have been part of this incredible journey.

Our vision has been to ensure that Canali evolves without losing its identity. This means expanding into new markets while staying true to our roots, embracing innovation in how we engage with customers and incorporating sustainability into our production processes, balancing tradition with innovation — preserving the craftsmanship that defines us while meeting the needs of a modern, global clientele.

The Canali store at Jio World

The Canali store at Jio World

How have the classic aesthetics of the brand evolved? How has the famous Canali suit changed with time?

We absolutely do not define ourselves as classic. Canali has always been synonymous with timeless elegance, but timeless does not mean static. Over the years, the Canali aesthetic has evolved to reflect the changing preferences and lifestyles of the modern man. While the structure and precision of our tailoring remain unmatched, we apply the skills to a full men’s wardrobe. We now offer a broader spectrum of styles, including unstructured jackets and hybrid garments that blend formal and casual elements seamlessly. Our suits have become lighter, softer, and more versatile to adapt to today’s fast-paced world. This evolution allows us to cater to a younger, more dynamic audience while maintaining the hallmarks of Canali craftsmanship.

Can you take us through the making of the special capsule collection to mark the 90th anniversary?

The 90th-anniversary capsule collection is a testament to Canali's journey and spirit of innovation. It plays with two of our most iconic products: the overcoat, the foundation of our company, and the suit, which has defined Canali’s reputation for timeless elegance. These two garments are reinterpreted to bridge the gap between heritage and the needs of a modern, fast-paced lifestyle.

A key feature of this collection is how we’ve extended the fabric of our suits — a refined worsted wool — into an entire wardrobe. This includes everything from overcoats and knitwear to accessories, demonstrating our ability to transform tradition into versatility.

An essential detail is the swan logo, which we have revisited for this occasion. The swan was our original symbol, chosen for its grace and transformation, but also because it is a waterproof animal, and here it holds a raincoat in its beak, a nod to our beginnings. This collection is a celebration of our legacy, but above all, it’s a promise of our continued dedication to excellence and innovation.

How has the brand sustained itself as a family-run business over the years?

What sustains us is a steadfast commitment to our core values — quality, authenticity, and innovation — combined with a forward-looking mindset. Being family-run also means that every decision is made with a long-term perspective. We are not just building for the present; we are shaping a legacy for future generations, fostering trust and consistency with which our customers around the world can identify.

Do you think in some ways the definition of luxury has remained unchanged? Or, in what ways has it changed?

The essence of luxury — craftsmanship, high-quality fabrics, impeccable construction and attention to detail — has remained constant. However, the way luxury is perceived and consumed has certainly evolved. Today’s luxury is not only about exclusivity but also about experience, authenticity, and emotional resonance. At Canali, we recognise that modern luxury places a greater emphasis on versatility, comfort, and sustainability. Our approach reflects these shifts, offering garments that are not only impeccably tailored but also adapt effortlessly to diverse lifestyles. Luxury is no longer confined to special occasions; it’s about integrating refinement into every moment of life. This is why we’ve expanded beyond traditional suiting to include casualwear, knitwear, and accessories that embody the same standard of excellence.

How has the consumption of luxury changed?

The consumption of luxury has become more personal and intentional. Customers today seek pieces that align with their values and lifestyles. There’s a growing appreciation for heritage and craftsmanship but also for brands that innovate and stay relevant.

At Canali, we’ve embraced this shift by transforming into a comprehensive lifestyle brand, offering versatile collections that meet the needs of a modern man’s wardrobe. From our signature suits to cashmere joggers, every piece is designed with comfort, functionality, and elegance in mind.

Furthermore, customisation has become a defining aspect of luxury. Our Made-to-Measure Me by Canali service allows clients to create garments tailored precisely to their preferences, offering a truly unique expression of personal style.

What do you think of India as a luxury market?

India is an incredibly vibrant luxury market with a unique blend of cultural heritage and modernity. We recognise the growing appreciation for luxury fashion there, which is reflected in the success of our seven stores across the country. India is for us not just a market but a cultural partner in the celebration of excellence, heritage, and refinement and for this reason we have decided to close our 90th anniversary celebrations in Mumbai.

Since our entry into India, we’ve introduced elements in our collections that cater to Indian preferences while preserving our brand identity, such as customisation and total-look options; we have also reimagined a bandhgala suit, which we adapted from its ceremonial origins to suit a more versatile and contemporary style. This design, which combines the grace of Indian heritage with Italian tailoring, has been met with much enthusiasm in India.

Stefano Canali

Stefano Canali

Which is the fastest-growing luxury market in the world?

Undoubtedly Asia, particularly China. Over the past decade, China has transformed into a driving force for the luxury industry, fuelled by a growing middle and upper class with a strong appetite for high-quality, crafted goods. Consumers in this market are increasingly discerning, valuing heritage, craftsmanship, and authenticity. Markets like India and Southeast Asia are also emerging as significant players in the luxury sector. These regions are experiencing rapid economic growth, urbanisation, and a shift in consumer behaviour towards premium products.

How young are your luxury consumers now, vis-a-vis a decade back?

Over the past decade, we have observed a noticeable shift in our customer demographics, with a growing appeal among younger, discerning luxury consumers. These consumers are drawn to Canali not only for our impeccable tailoring but also for our broader product range, including casualwear and accessories, which complement their dynamic lifestyles.

What remains the topmost luxury for you?

For me, the topmost luxury is time. Time to create, to perfect, and to deliver something truly exceptional. In an age of fast fashion and instant gratification, the luxury of taking time to craft each piece with the utmost attention to detail is invaluable.

Tell us about your partnership with Inter (FC Internazionale Milano)...

Our partnership with Inter is a celebration of Milan’s heritage, uniting two icons that represent the city on the global stage.This collaboration, which makes Canali the Official Formal Wear Partner of Inter, is particularly relevant as it aligns with our own 90th anniversary — a testament to the strength and longevity of both brands.

For this three-year partnership, we’ve created exclusive looks for Inter’s first-team players, management, and coaching staff. Each outfit reflects Canali’s commitment to understated luxury and contemporary elegance. We’ve chosen fabrics that combine Italian craftsmanship with practicality: a versatile four-pocket safari jacket for spring and a diamond-quilted bomber for winter, each incorporating the signature Canali green and Inter’s black-and-blue tones.

Are you a football fan?

I wouldn’t call myself a football fan in the traditional sense, as my personal passion lies with rugby. However, I deeply admire the values that both sports embody, such as teamwork, determination, and discipline. Football, like rugby, goes beyond individual talent— it’s about the strength of the collective effort. Inter exemplifies this beautifully. Their success, including last year’s achievement of their second star with the 20th Scudetto (national victory), is a testament to their cohesive team spirit and shared purpose. These are values that resonate strongly with Canali as a brand, making our partnership with Inter particularly meaningful.

As a legacy company, what is the tip to stay relevant?

The key to staying relevant as a legacy company is a delicate balance between honouring tradition and embracing innovation. At Canali, we are deeply rooted in craftsmanship, but we must also stay attuned to the changing needs and desires of our customers. We focus on offering timeless elegance while adapting to modern tastes, technologies, and a sustainable productive process.

What kind of changes will Canali see in the coming days?

We will continue to grow and evolve both in terms of product offer and distribution coherently with our values and identity. We will integrate more sustainable practices into our craftsmanship, reflecting the growing importance of sustainability in the luxury sector. In 2024, we proudly released our Sustainability Report, voluntarily aligning with the Global Reporting Initiative (GRI) Sustainability Reporting Standards. In addition, we will continue to embrace innovation in both design and technology.

The menswear market is seeing rapid growth. What do you attribute this to?

The rapid growth can be attributed to several key factors. First, there is a growing emphasis on self-expression, with men increasingly using fashion to manifest their individuality and personal style. As social norms evolve, more men are becoming comfortable with investing in high-quality, tailored pieces that reflect their personality.

Additionally, the rise of a younger, more fashion-forward consumer base has driven demand for both traditional and contemporary menswear. Finally, the expanding influence of social media and global connectivity has made fashion trends more accessible, allowing men to experiment with their wardrobe choices and stay on top of global trends.

Is there one business or leadership tip that you have inherited?

Humility, leadership, and care are fundamental principles at Canali. I’ve learned from my father never to rest on laurels and to lead by example, valuing every team member’s contribution. My father used to say that we need to be humble yet swift like a frog. My father’s guidance underscores the need for continuous improvement, setting an example for others, and recognising the significance of each individual contribution. This philosophy extends beyond our business to encompass our entire Canali family, community, and the world around us, shaping our unwavering commitment to hard work, integrity, and the pursuit of quality.

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