True blue: Keep at least a month between dyeing jobs. Photo: AFP

Hair dyes and related products spell big business. Commercial dye-makers sell dyes worth over $65 billion worldwide every year. The Indian market too does not lag too far behind. With a modest estimated market of Rs 40 crore, dye-makers are certainly here to stay.

But how safe or effective are these hair dyes? The brands certainly make very colourful promises, but how true or valid are those?

The Consumer Education and Research Society (CERS), Ahmedabad, conducted a lab test on 14 permanent hair dyes available. Here are the highlights of the test results:

Brands tested:

Of the 14 brands tested, eight brands were of powder hair dye variety ? Indica, Bigen, Junglee Kali Mehendi, Black Rose Kali Mehendi, Godrej Kali Mehendi, Godrej Permanent Hair Dye and Super Vasmol Aamla. Five other brands tested were of the oxidation liquid type ? New Godrej, Garnier Nutrisse, Godrej Colour Soft, ?Oreal Excellence and Revlon Colorsilk. Super Vasmol 33 was the only brand tested under emulsion-type hair dye.

All the brands were put to test for pH, total active matter, PPD content (concentration of the dyeing agent para-phenylenediamine {PPD}), packing and marking.

The oxidation liquid dyes were also tested for the hydrogen peroxide content. Two other tests, namely those for the total fatty matter and density were carried out for the emulsion type of hair dyes. Besides these standard tests, CERS also carried out additional ones for determining Eco Mark (to ascertain the levels of presence of heavy metals such as lead and arsenic) and sensory test for dye performance.

Key findings:

All the brands of permanent powder hair dye conformed to the parameter of pH, tested as per IS:10350: 1999.

Bigen failed the test for ?total active matter? and ?dye ready to use? (PPD content) parameters. According to regulatory standards, the concentration in powder form should not be more than 30 per cent and not less than 3 per cent after dilution. For the oxidation liquid type, the PPD should not be more than 4 per cent in the undiluted state and not less than 1.25 per cent after dilution. Bigen showed only 1.16 per cent against the minimum 3 per cent required.

Garnier Nutrisse and ?Oreal Excellence also did not conform to the parameters of ?total active matter? (dye content) and ?dye ready for use? as they showed readings of 1.72 per cent and 1.65 per cent respectively against the minimum requirement of 2.5.

Twelve brands failed to conform to the packing requirements (as specified by the Bureau of Indian Standards {BIS}). In the powder variety, Indica, Everest Kali Mehendi, Super Vasmol Aamla, Junglee Kali Mehendi, Bigen, Godrej Kali Mehendi and Godrej Permanent Hair Dye were found to be non-conforming.

In the oxidation liquid type, New Godrej, Revlon Colorsilk, Garnier Nutrisse and ?Oreal Excellence were found to be non-conforming. Super Vasmol 33, the only brand tested in the emulsion type, too failed to meet the required standards.

The PPD content of a hair dye is the most important bit of information that a consumer should know. As per IS requirements, the manufacturers have to provide information on the maximum PPD content of a brand. However, Everest Kali Mehendi, Super Vasmol Aamla, Junglee Kali Mehendi, Bigen, Garnier Nutrisse, Revlon Colorsilk and ?Oreal Excellence did not disclose this information.

The minimum PPD content in powder dye is an equally important figure. The only two brands that supply the information are Super Vasmol Aamla and Black Rose Kali Mehendi.

All the tested brands conformed to IS specification on lead and arsenic content.

CERS panellists tested hair switches for dye performance and colour fastness. Among the powder hair dyes, Junglee Kali Mehendi and Everest Mashoor Kali Mehendi scored 94 points each on a 100-point scale and Godrej Kali Mehendi scored only 38. Among the liquid hair dyes, New Godrej scored 92 points while ?Oreal scored 71.

Black Rose Kali Mehendi ? due to its reasonable price and good score ? was selected the best buy in the powder category. In the oxidation liquid dye category, Godrej Colour Soft was selected the best buy.

look before you pick your dye

READ WELL: Read the product label carefully and also the instructions.

OLD IS OUT: Avoid use of outdated products as ageing affects the chemistry of oxidative dyes.

DON'T MISS: Look out for the following disclaimer on the packet:
CAUTION: This product contains ingredients which may cause skin irritation on certain individuals and a preliminary test according to company instruction should be first made. This product must not be used for dyeing the eyelashes or the eyebrows; to do so may cause blindness.

SPACE IT OUT: Keep at least four weeks’ gap before you use the dye again.