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Regular-article-logo Sunday, 17 May 2026

No GI? Biryani still tastes the same

Admirers of the legendary Hyderabadi biryani have suffered a hiccup that could encourage few taunts from their rivals in Lucknow and Calcutta who swear by the taste of their local versions.

Our Special Correspondent And PTI Published 10.03.17, 12:00 AM

Hyderabad, March 9: Admirers of the legendary Hyderabadi biryani have suffered a hiccup that could encourage few taunts from their rivals in Lucknow and Calcutta who swear by the taste of their local versions.

The Geographical Indications Registry has reportedly denied the GI tag to the most famous dish in the fabled Hyderabadi cuisine.

"The application for registration of 'Hyderabadi Biryani' in GI was treated as abandoned as the applicant had failed to prove the historical data and origin of the product with supporting documents," PTI reported quoting a recent order of the GI Registry based in Chennai.

The Hyderabad biryani is described as originated in the kitchens of the Nizams by blending the Mughlai and Iranian cuisines, with a generous amount of spice and meat added.

The application for the GI tag was submitted to the assistant registrar of trademarks and GI in 2009 by a little-known group here - The Deccani Biryani Makers Association.

According to Chinnaraja G. Naidu, the assistant registrar, examination reports were issued thrice, directing the applicant to produce documentary evidence about the historical data and proof of origin of "Hyderabadi Biryani".

"There was no reply from the applicant with regards to the examination reports. The applicant failed to turn up on the date of hearings and there was no representation on the date of these hearings," Naidu said.

Biryani lovers and restaurateurs here sounded disappointed but said that the GI tag denial would not take away a bit the world popular recognition enjoyed by the Hyderabad biryani.

"I am not aware of this group and their application but I think Hyderabadi biryani should have got the tag. I mean it is not a must nor would a lack of it diminish the popularity but a GI recognition would have added another feather in the cap of our biryani, allowing us to promote it better among foreigners," Md Omer Adil, owner of the Shadab Restaurant, said.

The celebrated eatery located in the old quarters of Hyderabad serves one of the authentic versions of the Hyderabad dum biryani.

"The actual origin of the biryani could be Persian but Hyderabad made the dish as it is today, loaded with spices and a distinct flavour. People would not stop eating or appreciating it now but, yes, a GI tag would have been a matter of pride for us," said Ravikanth Reddy, the founder of Foodies in Hyderabad - Reloaded, a Facebook foodie group with close to 90,000 members.

"There are a lot many things Hyderabad is famous for but biryani is the first thing that crops up in conversations when we Hyderabadis introduce ourselves either in a foreign country or in other states."

"Anyway, as I understand, the denial decision could be challenged," said Reddy, who has also developed a version of the biryani.

Zubair Ahmed, the Deccani association secretary who reportedly filed the application, could not be reached on his phone for a comment.

An appeal against the decision could be filed in the Intellectual Property Appellate Board, Chennai, within three months from the date of the order.

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