He’s worked as a chef in the kitchens of Maldives, London, New York, Dubai, Sri Lanka and his home state Kerala. So expect chef Sonu Koithara to spin a few culinary wonders as he dons the top hat of executive chef at Taj Bengal! t2 caught up with the boss of the star kitchen.
You headed the team for Naomi Campbell and Nita Ambani’s birthday meals at Umaid Bhawan (Jodhpur). Tell us more…
There were a lot of major events in the three years that I was there. For Naomi Campbell, we got in meats and seafood from all over the world. She loved our Laal Maas.
For Nita Ambani’s birthday, we brought in truffles worth Rs 18-19 lakh from Italy, the coconuts from Thailand and the asparagus from Peru. She loves truffles and asparagus. She loves our Vegetable Focaccia. She doesn’t take anything that is too sour or spicy.
What about Bollywood stars?
Tabu was a regular; so was Salman Khan for a while. And then there was Sachin Tendulkar. The polo season, in particular, would see a lot of celebrities. The major business of the palace (Umaid Bhavan) is the high-end events. The lowest a plate goes for is Rs 10,000, going up to Rs 18,000 to Rs 25,000. (When the hotel catered for Elizabeth Hurley’s wedding in Mehrangarh fort, it was Rs 20,000 per plate.) It’s a great place and when it comes to food offerings, it’s the best we offer.
What was the first meal you cooked?
My mother actually taught me cooking. I’m the eldest in the family; I have three younger brothers. We grew up cooking Syrian-Christian food. My first dish was probably Appam and Duck Roast.
What was the first meal you had at Taj Bengal?
Machher Jhol and Steamed Rice.
Where have you eaten out in Calcutta?
I had heard a lot about China Town so I ate at Big Boss in Tangra. Then I tried the Bengali food at 6 Ballygunge Place and Calcutta’s famous rolls from Park Street.
You’re in Calcutta at a time when the next two years will see new star hotels opening up… do you have a vision with that in mind?
We will strengthen our banqueting menu. Right now, percentage of revenue contribution for banqueting versus restaurants is 40-60. We plan to stick to our Calcutta favourites. (Pssst: At Taj Bengal, the F&B contributes more to the overall revenue than the rooms.)
What is on-trend now?
Truffles, Peruvian asparagus and purple potatoes. Everyone’s asking for them so we’re going to go big with it.
What do you do when you’re not working?
I love to travel. When I was in Rajasthan, I travelled to many small places. I remember going to this small village called Samoja in Jalore district where the local traditional food was excellent.
A chef you look up to?
French chef Alain Ducasse. He is one of the most successful chefs and he became famous after a lot of hard work. Among other things, he is best known for creating a lot of innovative dining concepts. For him, cooking is not just a profession, it’s a passion.
If you were a dish, what would you be and why?
Single Origin Chocolate Fondant with Homemade Vanilla Pod Ice Cream. Chocolate fondant is attractive and is something that everyone loves. The best combo with a warm fondant is the cool vanilla pod ice cream. The dish is everyone’s favourite and is known by different names around the world — Chocolate Mud Pie, Chocolate Lava Cake and Chocolate Upside Down.
CHEF SONU’S PLANS FOR:
Chinoiserie: We plan to start dim sums and increase the vegetarian dishes.
Sonargaon: Coming up first is a Marwari food festival followed by a Southern Spice festival.
Chambers: We want to offer “exclusive” items like oysters, more European food like halibut and lobsters, Peruvian asparagus, purple potatoes…
Pictures: Rashbehari Das
