He started out in 1979. And Mickey Contractor is still going strong. The secret?
Refusing to “burn out”. t2 chatted with the make-up magician and the director of make-up artistry, M.A.C Cosmetics, India, on his recent trip to Calcutta, where he feels at “home”...

Do you love the Bengali look?

I have worked with Bengali girls so much in my career… I think it’s the skin tone. I like medium tones a lot more. That’s always the case… whether it’s Rani (Mukerji) or Bipasha (Basu), Sushmita (Sen). Features-wise, I’d say it’s the slight roundness of the face, very expressive, beautiful eyes, great hair. With Rani, 90 per cent of the time, it’s the eyes... with Bipasha too. Actually, even with Sushmita. I think generally Indian women love to work on their eyes.
 
After more than 35 years in this profession, is make-up the first thing you notice?

No, I am not very judgemental about that. When women walk in, the first things I notice are their hands and feet. Well-groomed hands and feet indicate hygiene levels. And I feel people who look after their hands, those who are normally well-manicured, are those who will make the effort to look good. It does take an effort to keep your nails in order. I also notice women with hair. Oh... I love long hair. May be that is because I don’t have any!
 
Helen sparked your interest in make-up...

For sure. I was a Hindi movie buff. I wanted to become a hairstylist, not a make-up artist. I have been watching her since the time I was seven-eight maybe. My grandmother used to watch a Hindi movie every Saturday. I had to go with her. And those days every film had to have Helen, at least one number. So, that is what I think got me… ‘Wow! How does this woman change so much every single time I see her?!’ She was a trendsetter. And I didn’t know that when I was going to study hair, she’d be a customer there. It just fell in place. I did her make-up 10 years ago for the first time. Meri aukaat hi nahin thi to even touch her face!
 
 

You have worked with almost everyone in Bollywood. Anyone who made you nervous?

The first time I did Asha Bhosle’s face, my hands shook. In my head, I was like if I put too much pressure here (points at the throat), kuch ho toh nahin jayega! When you work with such legends, there is that intimidation that happens, but now she is one of my dearest friends in the industry, she treats me like her son.
 
What is it like working in today’s Bollywood?

It is much more experimental. Today they are a lot more aware.
 
Is Bollywood going minimal?

Look, it took me many years to bring it down to what it is, from what it was even 10 years back. Now they are going more and more minimal, which is great. Glamour doesn’t always have to be about overly done up faces. Glamour is about the woman being able to carry herself confidently and look the best she can.
 
Is there anything called perfect make-up for you?

Perfectly done make-up for me would be using as little product as possible and yet bringing out the best in the woman. How you use a particular product in the right places and the right amount is what makes the difference. I am not one of those who would like to use glitter, but say if I had to, I would use it in the right places — just to highlight and let it show like glitter. People like shine or that glow on their cheeks, but some people put a slash of white. That is not the right way to do it. If you use the same product minimally, you will still get the desired effect and in a more feminine and beautiful way.
 
The make-up essentials are…

I don’t think essentials change really. It would be concealer, foundation, kohl pencil, eyeliner, lipstick, lip gloss. But every woman doesn’t use everything. Each woman should feel happy with what she is using as long as the make-up she is using is making her feel better and more confident of herself.

Do you tell your actress friends to go without make-up sometimes?

I am a champion for that. I made my wife go without make-up on her wedding day because I liked to see her without make-up. So, I feel not wearing make-up doesn’t mean you are not wearing anything. Every woman wears a little mascara, a little lipstick, a little blush. That’s good enough. Use what is necessary, not because everybody is using foundation, I am also using foundation. No! If you don’t need it, don’t do it.
 
What is this pressure of looking a certain way?

On celebrities definitely… tons of pressure. And with the selfie world.... People are judging you all the time. Either you don’t let it affect you or if it affects you, follow the trend and keep doing whatever you need to do to look confident.
 
How does the Indian woman approach make-up now?

From I-don’t-use-this to what-should-I-use-now… that’s the difference. Everybody is willing to try a red mouth. Everybody is willing to use a lip pencil. Women have started to curl eyelashes. It’s definitely moving forward and in a good way.

Saionee Chakraborty

What does a make-up junkie do the minute she hears that Mickey Contractor is in town? She promptly begs her colleague to take her along for the ‘assignment’. I certainly wasn’t losing the chance to have my make-up doubts cleared by him! Only regret? Not mustering enough courage to ask him to do the smokey eye on me. But then, I have the next best thing. His advice!

Summer = nude eyes and statement lips for me. But people say I end up looking sickly without kajal. HELP!

Use a set of really nice eyelashes and plenty of mascara. You can add the black element via that. That’s the cure for not using liner.

So many mascaras to choose from!

I’m swearing by this really cool mascara — In Extreme Dimension Lash Mascara by M.A.C. I’m really liking it.

I love doing up my lips but am a tad lazy when it comes to lining them...

Everybody has to take the trouble to look stunning. Us make-up artists are at it for hours. Take a little extra time out for yourself. Ya toh live with what you have. See, it takes less than three minutes to put on a lip liner.

But what if I’m in a rush?

Put the liner over your lipstick. It’s easier because it moves faster. Also, you’ve already got the shape, so you know where you have to move it a little bit to extend it. It’s simpler than going wrong with the lip liner and having to redo it. Also, it adds that extra dimension.

Of late, tear drop-shaped pink sponges called ‘Beauty Blender’ are a rage. I’m confused as to what it’s for.

Sponges are like brushes. Using a sponge or a brush depends on the person. Also, I might like a different brush to do the different things. I like a sponge because you can use and throw it. So hygiene-wise that’s great. Second, I find that sponges blend really well. Do try new products, but stick to what you’re comfortable with. Like I’m more comfortable using my fingers over sponges or brushes for things like the foundation.

Brush basics...

The blusher, a lip brush and a liner brush are the three brushes that everyone must own. Also, always  apply lipstick with a lip brush. That’s something I recommend 100 per cent — you can’t get the precision with just the lipstick on its own. Also, it fills in the creases. They are worth an investment. A lot of people think that brushes are too expensive. I don’t want to be rude but people wear under garments that are expensive! Why invest in those? It all comes down to what is right for you.

Can I be Beyonce flawless?

If you think using more foundation to cover your pores is smart, don’t. Because as soon as it starts to get oily, the pores start showing all the more. So use less foundation, especially in hot climates. Keep your skin matte, that is when you see the least amount of flaws — pimples or pores. Also, those with even remote skin issues, should stick to powder products, they’re your best bet; it covers everything.

Something that is protruding (like a pimple) can’t be covered with make-up. You can only cover the discolouration but not the height of the pimple. Let the lights play the trick instead. Stand under flat light and you won’t see the pimple. Go under contrast light and there it is!

Riddhima Khanna

The Mickey-Ash bond

Anything looks great on Aishwarya (Rai Bachchan). She is like my muse. I keep changing things on her. I have done just about everything on her face. Strangely, she never requests for anything. She is very confident about herself. She knows she can carry any look and then she probably has a lot of trust in me. Her face is symmetrical. My fave Aishwarya on-screen look is the minimal look I did on her in Kajra re where there was no foundation, except a little concealer, kajal and mascara. I am working on Ae Dil Hai Mushkil with her now.

What’s timeless...

1 I would like to believe that my smokey eyes and nude lips would be a timeless look. It’s been so far, from the time I started with Chalte Chalte.

2 A strong liner with a red mouth.

 

Top tip for beginners:

Start using make-up but go really slow. Start with either a lip gloss or just kajal. If you are already using kajal, then start using mascara. You will see the difference it makes. For your own sensibilities, to be able to accept your face changing, it takes time. So, take one step at a time.

 

How to do the smokey eye:

It’s all about blending. Use a fluffy brush. That way the brush moves faster and the blending happens better. Apart from that, make sure you curl your eyelashes before you do mascara because that changes everything.