“Whatever happened to the cleavage?” asked Vogue in its December issue, announcing to the world that the ‘cleavage is over’ and covered-up is the way to go.... The magazine’s international editor Suzy Menkes would say aye to Natalie Portman’s covered-up look and nay to Bella Hadid’s decolletage.... Why? “The covered-up look, launched by Valentino, looks much fresher than sexy body flaunting. I would say that legs are a current focus but often with stretch hosiery.” So, is the never-ending slit the answer? “I disagree. Covering up a bit looks much fresher on the red carpet. For the recent Golden Globes, I thought the pregnant Natalie Portman looked fabulous in her long-sleeved yellow Prada dress.”

What comes to mind when we say Indian luxury?

One of the greatest luxuries in the modern world are goods that are touched by human hands. For both decoration and a basis of many kinds of weaving, India is first class. The important thing for Western eyes is to go beyond material and also develop body shapes aligned with Western taste.

One thing unique to indian designers is?

Colour is one thing that is unique to Indian designers — meaning the variety and shades and different hues that take fabrics beyond the humdrum and obvious.

One aspect indian designers should work on to go global?

I think it is primordial for Indian designers to continue to draw inspiration from their own country and experience. The fashion world is moving away from global looks and consumers are looking for national originality.

One indian designer who has impacted global fashion?

I guess Manish Arora has made the most impression because he has shown in Paris (Fashion Week) for 19 years. This is now true of Rahul Mishra. Both are true to themselves and what they believe in.

Young talents from india to watch out for?

NorBlack NorWhite by Mriga Kapadiya and Amrit Kumar; Huemn by Pranav Mishra and Shyma Shetty; Anavila Misra; Nimish Shah... and so many more!

The pros and cons of social media on world fashion...

Social media has brought variety to fashion through on-line sales, through the views of influentials and the opportunity to participate, digitally, in international fashion shows.

Why not experiment with that iconic suzy quiff? 

I like my quiff, it is easy for me to do myself. I can even do it walking down the stairs!

For a biopic, who should play suzy menkes?

Emily Blunt.

What the world doesn’t know about suzy menkes?

I am more attached to my children and my extended family than to any fashion garment I have ever worn, however fabulous!

To maintain objectivity in fashion journalism...

I have never in my working life ever spent a night under a designer’s roof. I just try to be independent.

Text: Smita Roy Chowdhury