ON THE SPANISH SIDE OF TOWN
Poble Espanyol is a quaint architectural museum that was built in 1929 to exhibit the different cultures and architectural techniques prevalent in Spain. Thank God, it was not torn down. Don’t go too early to avoid crowds because the fun begins in the evening when the many shops inside the “Spanish town” are in full swing — handcrafting guitars, glassmiths glassblowing away, poster printing machines doing their work… it’s all quaint; it’s all groovy here even though the prices can sometimes be very tourist-y. But don’t forget to end the trip at the restaurant that’s even enjoyed by the locals — Isi’s… no, the name won’t get you in trouble but if you waste food here, the owner of the eatery can cause trouble!
MARK OF A MAN
Gentlemen, please don’t miss Ganiveteria Roca. Dating back to 1911, the shop specialises in razors and scissors that any well-dressed man should have. When I say razors, it’s “Mach Zero” here because it’s all about that extra-close shave. Of course, over the years, the shop has extended its service to all kinds of knives and tweezers, giving top chefs around the world something to chop… um, cheer about. Talking about old-school treatment, another shop around the corner from Ganiveteria Roca is Sombrereria, the ultimate stop for Panamas, fedoras, bowler hats and much more. Keep the credit card handy because the word ‘cheap’ doesn’t find a place
at this quaint destination.
UNFORGETTABLE FLAMENCO
Slip out of the tourist-y shops of Barcelona filled with frilly, voluminous flamenco dresses and slip into the queue to the ticket counter at Palacio del Flamenco where a tapas meal — and there is no end to the variety served here — and glasses of sangria and a live troupe of bailaores (dancers) and cantaores (singers) await. Outside is a biggish poster of Karime Amaya, a relative of the legendary flamenco gypsy dancer Carmen Amaya. Once seated and halfway through the meal, she makes an appearance that deserves only one word: unforgettable. Of course, if you want to skip the one-and-a-half-hour-long meal but enjoy the live music and dancing, there is always the balcony.
BLISTERING BARNACLES
Spotting Cantonet, El Raco Tintinaire was my proudest moment because 24 hours later, the tour guide gifted me a few Tintin-inspired table coasters for finding the shop that even she had no clue about! It’s a Snowy jump away from the unmissable Sagrada Familia (designed by Antoni Gaudi and a Unesco World Heritage site), which, sorry to say, didn’t make me go: “Get in queue right away.” Making it to the shop an hour after noon, the owner of the nook had to be woken up from her siesta because a Tintin fan is always ready to pore through Herge titles even if they are in Spanish. Making the 45-minute stop worth one’s while were miniature dolls of Tintin, Captain Haddock, Snowy and their friends. Adding to the impromptu shopping list were playing cards, miniature model ships and pencils.
AWAY FROM BARCELONA
What can you do when your hotel gives you the old heave ho and the airport authority says, “Demasiado temprano (too early)” or something to that effect? Make the one-hour train (or bus) journey to Montserrat, a weekend getaway to the mountains. Frankly, this place is worth two days because all your worries jump off the cliff as soon as you set foot on the steep roads alongside which local farmers set up stalls to sell the best of cheese, honey and chocolates. On your way to the monastery, don’t buy anything because a lot of walking is involved once at the destination. After paying respect to Our Lady of Montserrat inside the Basilica, stick around the courtyard and drink in the architectural splendour. After spending 40-45 minutes at the monastery, the shops beckon. Besides the delicious sandwiches and outstanding coffee, a must-have experience involves liquor tasting for Euro 2. In small paper cups, four varieties of liquor unique to the place are offered and they are nothing like you would drink even if you have been bingeing in Barcelona. This is where you can reflect on your non-tourist-y journey through Barcelona.
GODFATHER’S DELIGHT
Nobody’s going to tell you about Musica Casa Beethoven in Barcelona’s shopping district, La Rambla. You don’t have to be a music lover to be at this 1880-founded institution, which is now run by the father-son duo of Jaume Doncos Codina and Jaume Doncos Pros. What makes it such an important stop? I have six reasons. First, piano and saxophone miniatures. Second, LPs in mint condition. Third, the outstanding collection of harmonica, especially the ones from Hohner. Fourth, sheet music and books. Fifth, and this one is a very important one: Music box machines (upwards of Euro 7) that you can wind up to play Under Paris Skies and the theme from The Godfather, to name two (just the gift for your family members!). Finally, standing where the likes of Montserrat Caballe have stood as customers, is an experience in itself. If you really want to get into the swing of things, ask the owners to play you a tune on their piano. Instead of Instagramming it, listen to them and remember it forever.
AND BEGIN THE JOURNEY WITH…
A train ride from Madrid to Barcelona. My first stop on the three-and-a-half-day trip of Barcelona was incidentally Madrid! Yes, a Ronaldo stop en route to Messi. Madrid is a laid-back city with an outstanding nightlife. Here nightlife stands for spending hours at restaurants that are considered some of the best in Europe. Slow-roasted pork shoulder, perfectly-cooked Mediterranean fish topped with caviar and handmade ice cream… it’s all there and more. Though shops are obviously in plenty, a great way to spend a few hours is at the Madrid city centre where philatelists and numismatists gather to exchange and sell collections. It’s a picture that stays with you through the two-hour train journey to Barcelona… and for ever!
PS: Barcelona can well be the pickpocket capital of Europe. How do I know? One big shot of a leading mobile phone company was mugged outside his hotel, a chartered accountant suffered the same fate in the city’s shopping district and a fellow journalist started his holiday post-Mobile World Congress without his suitcase!
SPOTTED ON LA RAMBLA
(Photos were taken with OnePlus’ latest phone, 3T!)
