Metiabruz Murgh Biryani, a homegrown chicken biryani complete with potato and boiled egg

“Biranj” is a word that can simply translate as “rice”, but an improvement would be “a (main) course with rice as the base”. An indispensable staple for about two thirds of humanity for centuries, even millennia, this small four-letter word is a powerful, versatile nutritionist’s dream with endless possibilities. Cultures that in earlier times never knew about it or cared for it much have taken to it over the years, adapted and experimented, and it would be true to say that today there isn’t a nook or cranny on the planet where rice, in some kind of preparation, is not served. Even if not at home, at a restaurant nearby.

About three or four decades ago I read something in the papers which suggested that rice might have harmful aspects, but the same report ended by saying that nutritionists had taken a good look and were pleased to state that it was the king of staples, with many positive and even therapeutic properties. Take, for example, the famous panta bhaat of Bengal (rice left to ferment overnight, liquidy, and delicious with a bit of chilli or pickle, on which millions have breakfasted profitably all over our rural areas for centuries). After which, you are all set for a hard day in the fields. I was brought up to have a true blue rice-based Bengali lunch but dinner, though Bengali, was had with chapattis. One day, in my fifties, I decided to have rice twice a day, just to see if I put on weight or whether this Bengali practice had a downside. This went on for about a decade, and the paunch (a beer belly, in any case), stayed the same and in every other way, things were function junction. Of course, we all know, and must keep in mind, that nothing fails like excess.

I have been extolling the virtues of rice for the good reason that ITC Sonar is having a festival called “Daawat-e-biranj”. The festival showcases about 20 preparations, all subcontinental, though some are born of sheer creative instinct, and all I have said, mainly about adaptability and versatility, stands vindicated. They are biryanis, basically, veg and non-veg, because the “dum” style of cooking is mostly used, but technicalities apart, there are some real gems. I could not go beyond sampling as many as six dishes, and will describe them briefly.

I’ll start with the vegetarian dishes as a good Bengali. A south Indian speciality first up, Amravati Biryani, an aromatic veg biryani from Andhra Pradesh, in fact named after a place there, and they serve it with pachdi, which is their word for raita, a good idea because as we know Andhra food is zingy. Next was from the same environs — a Hyderabadi biryani called Jodhpuri Kabuli Biryani because of the chickpeas used, in the form of a dal, really, along with the long-grained basmati rice which makes any biryani so stately; so there were shades of khichuri. Seasoned with green cardamom and mace. I must mention here that all the dishes used the same rice, done to perfection, never soggy or too dry... probably an influence of Calcutta’s biryanis, which are the best.

Then there was Zamikand and Zaituri Biryani — yam and olives with basmati rice and seasoned with royal cumin. The non-veg dishes were Chemeen Biryani, a Kerala prawn special spiked with cinnamon and cooked dum style, probably the world’s first form of pressure cooking. Here again I must mention that all the dishes, veg or not, are cooked this way. Dum Pukht Gosht, an ITC signature dish with lamb and rice flavoured with green cardamom and mace, deserves a multi-star rating. And finally there was Metiabruz Murgh Biryani, a homegrown chicken biryani complete with potato and boiled egg, with green cardamom and a surprise bonus of dried apricots.

There were as many as 12 biryanis I didn’t manage to try (a good reason for a return ticket) — six veg and six non-veg, and they all sound inviting with ingredients like jackfruit, dates, stuffed potatoes and milk products like paneer and even rosogollas in the veg ones and Calcutta bekti, prawns, chicken and mutton in the non-veg ones.

On signing off, I must say there is a class and subtlety to this festival, and in general, this is one of the five-star chains in the country where the quality, variety and international touch surely appear to be a priority. Not said to please anyone, and open to rebuttal.

What: Dawaat-e-biranj
Where: Eden Pavilion, ITC Sonar
On till: October end, 7.30pm-11.45pm
Pocket pinch: Rs 1,850-plus per person

Pictures: Anindya Shankar Ray