The wooden handmade piano or the iconic grand chandelier have adorned the lobby of the “Grand Dame of Chowringhee” since the late 1880s, witness to and part of innumerable memories shared by generations of visitors. As a tribute as well as an indulgent nudge to the warm memories that loyalists share with the hotel, the La Terrasse kitchen has laid out Rivaayat, a menu that celebrates tradition.
“This menu gives you food as it was, as it should be, without changing its character to suit a fine-dining destination. It is traditional food that we grew up eating. Hence we have time-tested recipes from places like Awadh, Hyderabad, Punjab, purani Delhi and our own hotel too,” said executive chef Saurav Banerjee.
Appetisers such as Mawey Ki Kakori (kebab made of khowa, paneer, pomegranate and pistachio) and Galouti Kebab (succulent lamb kebabs from the khansamas of the nawabs) share space with dishes like Amritsari Machhli (a Punjabi fish recipe) and Purani Dilli Fried Chicken (why go to Kentucky when you get it in your gully?!). In the main course, Pindi Chana gives competition to Punjabi Aloo Wadiyan (the Bong bori or lentil dumplings cooked Punjab da style).
The menu is the outcome of a conclave of chefs and culinary experts who met to share notes on traditional cuisine at The Oberoi, Gurgaon, in December. It also has a few dishes that were part of the menu at Gharana, an Indian speciality restaurant that had opened at the Chowringhee hotel in 1996.
“For different reasons, Gharana was closed. But many guests still come and ask for the food served at Gharana,” said chef Saurav. Well, now’s their chance!

Chef Saurav Banerjee was the opening chef for Gharana, the Indian speciality restaurant of The Oberoi Grand, which later closed. “The menu will be available till the end of February and then, depending on our guests’ feedback, we might extend it by a few more days,” said the executive chef. The pocket pinch? Rs 3,500 (plus taxes) for a meal for two.

Awadhi Nalli Nahari
A rich lamb stew cooked overnight. It is actually working-class food from Awadh. Order a Warqi Paratha and enjoy the meat.

Purani Dilli Fried Chicken
Triple-fried crisp chicken from the bylanes of ‘Dilli-6’. “You are supposed to chew through the bones, that’s how it is fried,” shared chef Saurav.

Kathal Ki Biryani
A blend of fine rice and tender jackfruit cooked together and served with arbi ka salan.

Chooza Khaas Makhni
Free range chicken cooked in tandoor and simmered in a tomato-and-butter gravy. #yummm
Sibendu Das
Pictures: Rashbehari Das