What: Royal Hilsa Menu
Where: Eden Pavilion, ITC Sonar
Timings: 12.30pm to 2.45pm; 7pm to 11.30pm
On till: August 31
Meal for one: Rs 2,000-plus
A bright and sunny Monday morning took us back in history — tracing the flavours wafting from the royal kitchens of Bengal — at Eden Pavilion, ITC Sonar. The all-day coffee shop is hosting a festival that boasts of heirloom ilish recipes shared by four rajbaris — Cossimbazar, Moynagarh, Posta and Sovabazar. t2 relished some with gorom bhaat and a host of stories.
ILISH MAACHHER DUM PULAO:
“When Mughal emperor Jahangir came to power, he called for all the zamindars, talukdars and other representatives to visit him in Delhi. Raja Paramananda Bahubalindra from Moynagarh attended the meet and it was then when he first tasted Mughlai food like biryani and pulao, which was not known in Bengal then. After coming back, he was so inspired by it, he tried to make the same with ilish,” said Siddhartha Bahubalindra of Moynagarh Rajbari.
What we loved: Cooked with Basmati rice, fried onions and whole spices and served with raita, this is a non-spicy dish that plays the subtle flavours of the hilsa.
ZAFRANI ILISH:
“It is believed that Rani Kasturi Manjuri Dasi had lovingly cooked this dish for her son Kumar Bishnuprasad Roy when he returned from Europe,” said Rajasree Roy of Posta Rajbari.
What we loved: This yummy hilsa dish from Posta Rajbari is as fragrant as it is filling. Unlike most hilsa delicacies that become piquant from the mustard paste, this one is cooked in a gravy of cashew, milk and saffron, and garnished with raisins. The taste is mild with saffron dominating the aroma.
SUGANDHI ILISH BHAPA:
This 261-year-old recipe was supposed to have been a favourite of Raja Nabakrishna Deb. “In those days, women barely had a say on the goings-on in life, it is said that the wives used to win over their husbands with the food they cooked and whenever they wanted to convince them of something, they would cook hilsa or crab because it took them a lot of time to eat those and the women would get enough time to talk and get their way,” said Salma Deb of Sovabazar Rajbari.
What we loved: The uniqueness of this dish lies in the spices it’s cooked with. Clove and cinnamon are added to the hot oil and strained. The fish is then cooked in this oil; the mustard and yoghurt gravy lends an aromatic, tangy taste.
MADHU MALAI ILISH:
A dish that spells a wife’s love for her husband. According to the living generation of Cossimbazar rajbari, “The lore goes that on a rainy day in 1900, Raja Ashutoshnath Roy was set on going hunting, and his wife, Rani Sarojini Devi, was worried sick. He promised to be back and urged his beloved wife to cook something special for him to have on his return. And this was the dish she cooked,” said Supriya Roy of Cossimbazar Rajbari.
What we loved: Ingredients like honey, yoghurt, lemon juice and coconut milk are used to make a thick gravy. This dish is creamy and mildly sweet, which needs to be enjoyed with piping hot steamed rice.
Every hilsa dish on the menu will be accompanied by Ilish Bhaja Tel, Ilish Maachher Deem Bhaja, Ilish Bhaja, Aloo Bhate, Ilish Maachher Matha Diye Chorchori and a portion of steamed rice.
Rajasree Roy of Posta Rajbari (second from left), Atul Bhalla (fifth from left), Siddhartha Bahubalindra of Moynagarh Rajbari (third from right), Salma Deb of Sovabazar Rajbari (second from right) and Supriya Roy of Cossimbazar Rajbari (far right) with executive chef Vijay Malhotra. “Part of ITC Hotels’ initiative of Responsible Luxury, the heirloom hilsa recipes of royal families are undiscovered legacies from Bengal. There are four distinguished families participating here and it is our endeavour to introduce more families of heritage in our subsequent editions,” said Atul Bhalla, area manager, east, ITC Hotels & General Manager ITC Sonar.
The Rajbaris
Cossimbazar: “Our rajbari is a fine example of palatial European meeting Indian architecture, tucked away in Murshidabad. On the basis of their benevolent deeds and services, our family was bestowed with the ‘Raja’ title by the British,” said Supriya Roy.
Moynagarh: “This Bahubalindra dynasty is from East Midnapore and is known as the land of history, mythology, aesthetic beauty and communal harmony,” said Siddhartha Bahubalindra.
Sovabazar: “Built in 1700, our lavish rajbari in north Calcutta is synonymous with celebrations, hospitality and good food,” said Salma Deb.
Posta: “Our family received the Raja title from the British and has been known for aristocracy and delicious food. Ten generations of the Roy family have lived in the Posta Rajbari,” said Rajasree Roy.
Text: Pramita Ghosh. Pictures: Rashbehari Das
