There I was lying in bed, with a lovely soft quilt keeping me cosy and gazing at one of the wonders of the world looming larger than life right outside my bedroom window. From my bed, the Taj Mahal in its dazzling white glory, looked almost unreal.

I guess unreal is the right word for it. After all, it isn’t often you gaze at the Taj — from a distance of 600m — while comfortably tucked in bed.

The fact is that the Taj Mahal is literally a stone’s throw away from The Oberoi Amarvilas. It’s a towering presence wherever you go in the hotel. As you approach the lobby, your gaze is caught by the picture window that looks onto Shah Jahan’s white marble wonder. It’s also there, larger than life when you’re sitting in the bar.

You could say, I’m an undying fan of the Taj Mahal. I’ve been there five times in the past decade and each time I’ve had a different experience. I’ve even seen it by moonlight, shimmering and beauteous.

The Oberoi Amarvilas’s key selling point is that all rooms look out onto the Taj

Agra is a quick weekend getaway for people who live in Delhi — though it isn’t the loveliest city in the world. But it has suddenly become a darn sight closer. No, the Taj and the city of Agra haven’t upped and dropped anchor closer to Delhi. But a spectacular eight-lane highway has turned a stressful, four to five hour journey into a smooth two and a half hour ride. And there are even sparkling — maybe because they are still new —restaurants and restrooms on the way, along the wilderness of Uttar Pradesh.

Yes. Getting on the Yamuna Expressway is not cheap. In fact, it must be one of the most expensive toll roads in the country. But this will still be Rs 600 of the smartest bucks you’ve ever spent.

Three toll booths later, after passing by many acres of Uttar Pradesh farmland, we entered Agra from the old part of the town and were soon only twenty minutes away from my hotel.

I reached the hotel at 1pm and first stepped out onto the balcony to gaze at the Taj (most of the rooms have balconies). Then it was time to head to one of the few parts of the hotel where you can’t see the Taj, and where, as it happens, I spent a lot of time — the restaurant.

The chef was keen to show off his skills today and had served up a fresh chevre cheese platter with a side of melons followed by baked tomato, basil and aubergine for the main course. I don’t usually pay much attention to aubergines, but this once it was worth it.

Since I’d planned a 6am visit to the Taj Mahal the next morning, I was happy to hang about the hotel for the whole day. So, after snoozing off my lunch, I headed to the spa.

The Agra Fort is another must-see on the tourist itinerary

What makes the spa here unlike any other experience in India, is the treatment room. The room, once again, has a clear view of the Taj Mahal. It isn’t hard to drift off to semi-sleep and imagine you’ve been transported back to the Mughal Era.

That was followed by a swim and a visit to the hotel’s presidential suite. Here’s the hotel’s general manager Ankush Mahajan told us about guests they’ve had recently in the suite like Arnold Schwarzenegger and Oprah Winfrey.

Soon after, we settled down for a six-course fusion Indian dinner. Still full from lunch, I quietly dodged a few courses.

The next morning I was up and about, and ready early to head to the Taj. I hopped onto the hotel’s golf cart that took me there.

One of the many exotic offerings at the hotel’s restaurant; Pic by Varuni Khosla

Last year I had seen the Taj by moonlight. Early morning is not as good, but it’s the next best thing.

The crowds were already gathering and some foreign visitors were performing complex yoga asanas and getting themselves clicked in those poses.

By 8am, I was back in the hotel. After a quick nap, I headed down to the restaurant for breakfast. By this time I was beginning to realise the one-day holiday was turning out to be more of a gastronomical extravaganza.

After a south-Indian breakfast, it was time to hit the high road to Delhi. And voila, I was back in Delhi before the clock struck 12. I returned to Delhi, promising myself that since Agra was closer now,

I would explore the city’s other, equally beautiful, lesser known monuments. A few worth the visit are, the Chini Ka Rauza, the Idmat Ud Daula tomb, Mehtab Bagh, Gyarah Sidi and the Mughal Gardens.

TRAVEL LOG

Getting there: Yamuna Expressway (two-and-a-half hours to Agra city. Toll charges approx. Rs 600) or you could use the Mathura Road (4-5 hours on a low traffic day). Daily trains ply from across the country to Agra Cantonment station.
Where to stay: The Oberoi Amarvilas’s premier room with balcony costs between Rs 44,000 and Rs 52,000, depending on the season.