As you walk down the narrow, cobbled streets of Toledo it’s easy to believe you’ve suddenly stepped back several centuries. The quaint street lamps light up houses that must have been gleamingly new back in the 16th century. Glance down an alley and you might spot a grand mansion. There are palaces, an imposing fortress, churches, a mosque and even the oldest standing synagogue in Europe — befitting for a place known as the “city of three cultures” when Christians, Arabs and Jews lived together for centuries behind its walls.

Still, the illusion of being thrown back into the Middle Ages doesn’t last for long. Every 15 minutes you have a Toyota Avensis or a stylish Aston Martin with a dapper driver at the helm speeding towards you through this narrow web of cobbled alleys — and you stand squashed against the buildings to let it pass.

This is the onetime capital of Spain which lies 70km south of Madrid. Its most famous son is the famous Greek artist, El Greco, who migrated here in 1577. While other parts of Europe today are caught up in what is being hailed as the largest wave of migration in Europe since the Second World War, Toledo remains untouched and in fact is an example of how cultural diversity can enrich a city.

Toledo’s also an example of how cities can rise and fall. Today its population is just 75,000 — and heading downwards. But it’s partly its relatively small size that accounts for its idyllic character. The old city sits ensconced within the medieval-era walls with its imposing gates and maze of streets that lead to the historic centre, Plaza de Zocodover. Beyond this is the Alcazar, the huge fortress-like building that dominates Toledo’s skyline. The Romans used it as a palace, the Christians reconstructed it, and later during the outbreak of the Spanish Civil War, the Military Academy was housed here. Today it contains the army’s offices and a museum.

The Roman conquest in 190 BC was followed by the Arab invasion in the eighth century, and later the presence of Christians and Jews saw Toledo metamorphose into its multicultural identity. The era of tolerance may not have lasted but it has left a multi-layered, multicultural tone to the city.

Take a look, for instance, at the Church of Santiago del Arrabal, close to the old city’s historic centre, Plaza de Zocodover. It’s built in the Arabic Mudejar style from the remains of a mosque, and it offers the best of the Oriental and Occidental worlds. It is this diversity of artistic styles that has led to Toledo being declared a World Heritage Site by Unesco.

To soak in the essence of the city, walking — mostly uphill — is mandatory. The climb is relatively steep, so comfortable walking shoes are a must. A suitable point to begin the exploration would be at the San Martin Bridge, a 13th-century entrance to the city, which still retains its defensive towers. From here, a walk around the old city walls up to Plaza de Zocodoveris an invigorating experience.

Another must-visit is the Church of Santo Tome in Plaza del Conde that houses one of El Greco’s famous masterpieces, The Burial of Señor de Orgaz. Also within walking distance is the synagogue, Santa Maria la Blanca now, owned and preserved by the Catholic Church but constructed under the Christian Kingdom of Castile by Islamic architects for Jewish use.

A hearty traditional meal is usually served in one of the country houses that dot the other side of River Tagus. Toledo’s typical cuisine has various specialities based on game products, like stewed partridge, Toledo-style quail or venison with wild mushrooms. These are a bit of a touristy affair but worth digging into to travel back in time.

And no visit would be complete without a visit to the Cathedral, a vast Gothic edifice with twin steeples, in the city centre. The construction of this monumental building began in 1226, but was completed in the 15th century. As you finally head out of the Cathedral to shop for Toledo’s typical souvenirs — knives and swords — the feeling of being caught in an alluring time warp persist along with the desire to remain suspended in that time.

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♦ How to get there: Rent a car from Madrid or go to metro Mendez Alvaro, adjacent to Madrid’s Estacion Sur Bus Station from where buses depart every half an hour
♦ Where to stay: Budget hotels around the old historic centre