Not all history is confined to the textbooks. For a bit of exploration, one needs to hit the road. And sometimes, the excursion can turn into a memorable weekend trip. If you wish to know why a north Indian businessman set up a huge zamindari in a remote corner of Midnapore in the 16th century, pay a visit to Mahishadal.

The town is half-an-hour away from Haldia. It becomes the focus of attention during the rathyatra every year. At the annual affair, Mahishadal attracts thousands of pilgrims. But one could visit Mahishadal any weekend and discover the past in its famous rajbari.

Back in the 16th century, Janardhan Upadhyay Garg, a rich businessman, bought a huge estate here. This reached its pinnacle of glory in the 18th century, in the days of Rani Janaki Devi. According to local history, she was a relentless anti-British crusader. The sun set on the estate, and today, the palace of Rani Janaki is in ruins.

The 19th century palace of the erstwhile rajas still stands along the banks of the canal, steeped in history. The courtroom in the new palace is well maintained. The ornate furniture and the paintings on the walls evoke awe. As does the trophy room, with its exhibits of stuffed tigers, bison, deer and birds, as well as the weapons that were used for hunting.

The rajbari also has a host of temples, the main ones being of Gopaljew and Ramjew. There is a rather big natmandir tucked away in a corner of the sprawling campus.

While students of history would simply love visiting the rajbari, nature-lovers would not be disappointed either. The long lines of palm trees, large ponds and the twittering of birds fill the air with a sense of serenity. One feels happy having left the bustle of the city far behind.

A tour of the rajbari leaves one with a sense of d?j? vu. Not surprising as many a film has been shot here. It was a favourite with Tollywood directors of yore, especially in the black-and-white era.

Gone are the days of Mahishadal?s glory, but the small town now takes pride in its famous, delectable mihidana and chhanar murki. The local sweet-makers see to it that Mahishadal is more than a dot on the map of Bengal.

Going:

Those who prefer the train can take the Howrah-Haldia local. Get off at Satish Samanta halt station in Mahishadal and take an auto or a rickshaw to reach the rajbari. Those more adventurous can travel to Noorpur by road, cross the river to Geonkhali and then continue by road to Mahishadal. An alternative road route is via Kolaghat-Mecheda-Nandakumar. Either way, the journey takes about three to four hours. From Haldia, Mahishadal is a half-an-hour drive

Staying:

There are several hotels in nearby Haldia. For information, contact the tourism office of the Haldia Development Authority. Call (03224) 274134/274334