Going strictly by the scriptures, you are supposed to opt for fishy flavours on Saptami and avoid meat. But if there is a puja at home, your Wednesday ought to be a niramish affair altogether. There are stricter codes for the days thereafter as advised by our kindly pandit moshai if you want to play by the rules. But if gastronomic indulgence is the excuse you were looking for, there?s plenty on offer in huge thalas at every Bengali speciality restaurant worth its Luchi-Aloor Dom.

If you thought the thakumas and pishimas were all too happy to lug the ladle to power your puja platter, think stove strike. Ample proof of the kitchen lockout can be found in full houses at most eateries during the four fervent days.

Our high priests tell us that bheto-Bangalis are supposed to go without rice on Ashtami! There are delicious alternatives in Luchi and Kochuri not to mention a host of other lip-smackers like Halwa, Aloo Phulkopir Tarkari? anything as long as it doesn?t have a trace of onion, garlic or musoor dal.

?You can?t afford to pollute the mouth that utters the sacred mantras during anjali,? stresses Pandit Nitai Chakraborty of Baidik Pandit Purohit Mahamilan Kendra.

Meat eaters can revel the day after, Navami being reserved for the boli (ceremonial slaughter). Dashami is even more fun if you happen to have pals from bonedi baris with a tradition of homemade shiddi (a strong psychedelic brew).

In case dining out is your thing, here?s some of the highlights from the tried and tasted names in Bengali cuisine.

Kewpie?s

This six-year-old quaint inn-style eatery in Elgin Lane is offering a fusion fare with Jewish, Parsi, Goan, Anglo-Indian and even South Indian flavours fused with Bengali cuisine. ?I wanted to raise a toast to all the communities who?ve settled in Calcutta over the years,? says Rakhi Purnima Dasgupta.

Thus you have Duck Vindaloo (Anglo-Indian recipe), Patrani Machhi (Parsi style), Goan Crab Curry (need we say more), Mutton Chettinad (very South Indian) and even Thai style Chilli Prawn vis-?-vis the Ilish Paturis and Dab Chingris.

While the a-la-carte menu is standard apart from a few special additions, it?s the Puja special thalas that are the major draws. The feast includes two Mahabhoj Thalas and a Puja Special Vegetarian Thala. A whole spread is on offer for anything between Rs 210 and Rs 345.

Oh! Calcutta

The Continental and Bengali speciality restaurant at Forum has done what comes naturally. Desi khana on the Puja special menu is laced with firang flavours. Most of the dishes here are innovations on centuries-old recipes culled from the Raj era. The relics are either unusual like Chingri Malai Moili or as simplistic as Kancha Lonka Diye Mangsho and Dhone Pata Diye Mangsho. For the fiercely traditional there is the usual Dab Chingri, Kosha Mangsho, Bhetki Machher Paturi, Chingri Cutlet, Kankra Chingri Bhapa, Bhapa Murgi and more at the special Bengali buffet priced at Rs 350, between noon and 3.30 pm.

Bhojohari Manna

More mahabhoj at its three outlets in Ekdalia, Hazra and Salt Lake. Thalas named Mayurpankhi, Kamalika, Shingho Bahini and Neelkantha for Saptami, Ashtami, Navami and Dashami respectively heaped with Luchi, Posto Diye Potoler Dolma, Narkel Sorshe, Bhetki Sorshe, Chingri Machher Malai Curry, Boneless Mangshor Korma, Khejur Aamshotto Chutney and more is on offer. The veg thalas are priced at Rs 150, while the non-veg platter comes for Rs 275.

Do it yourself

Mutton Dakbangla (Picture left by Rashbehari Das, courtesy Bhojohari Manna)

Ingredients:

500 g mutton (10 pieces), 50 g ginger paste, 40 g garlic paste, 75 g onion paste, 20 g green chilli paste, 100 g curd, 10 g black pepper, salt to taste, 1? tsp sugar, 2 tbsp Kitchen King masala, 2-3 tej pata, whole garam masala, 2-3 g garam masala powder, 2 g turmeric powder, 3-4 g cumin powder, 3-4 g coriander powder, 10 g each red and green chilli paste, 100 g curd, 120 ml refined oil, 6 boiled eggs.

Preparation:

Heat 60 g refined oil in a kadai, add whole garam masala, tej pata, onion paste and fry till the onion is browned. Add ginger-garlic paste, fry some more and add green and red chilli paste. Fry for a minute and add the mutton pieces, cook for a while and add the curd that has been well-beaten. Simmer for 5 minutes, add all the masala, put two cups water and bring to a boil (15-20 minutes). Set the mutton aside. Fry the boiled eggs in a separate utensil till golden brown. Heat a little oil in yet another utensil, add the mutton preparation, some more garam masala powder, chopped coriander leaves and simmer for 5 minutes. Top with the golden eggs and serve.